Media Blasting Options, Body Tub

Hello all,
I am at the stage in my rebuild where I have to do the bodywork, I've rebuilt everything mechanical and have the body sitting back on the rolling frame with full drive train installed. After examining my "rust free" body, as the seller said, it's a bondo buggy with very poorly patched floors. I've already removed the overlay patches on the floor and started chipping away with a body hammer. I have no other choice but to have the body media blasted so I can start from ground zero. The issue I am running into is finding someone to do it. I thought about finding someone to mobile blast it here at my house but every link I look up is no longer active. I am wondering if the big covid shutdown put a lot of these guys out of business? I am in a big aircraft town and there are machine services and surface refinishing services all over but they just aren't affordable for the average person. I've thought about just replacing the body with a new one from that place in the Philippines, I think they run about $3500 or so, but the body is not unrepairable, needs new floor channels and panels, some repair around the tail lights. Also my state has some really strict rules on changing VIN plates from one body to another. So to get around to the question, has anyone used the mobile blasting service and is it worth the money? I expect to pay more than $1k for any one to do it, but I can primer spray it after blasting and get started with cutting and welding patches. If anyone has thoughts on this process or experience, I would appreciate to hear it. Thanks.

 

You can try a habor freight media blast pot. I used one on mine, but only in the hard to get places and crevises. I used a paint/rust disc on a grinder for the majority of the body.

The Vin number should be stamped on your frame and I would think that would satisfy the KS DMV on moving your VIN plate to a new body, but what do I know.

 

You know I thought about one of those small blasters, I have a fairly good DeWalt compressor, might have to try it for the hard spots and sand the rest. There was a story here in the news about a guy that bought a $60,000 restored Corvette in Indiana and brought it home to Kansas to get a title and plates. The Kansas Highway Patrol seized the car. It sat in storage for 2 years and got beat up with stuff hitting it and caused a lot damage that had to be repaired. The VIN plate had been removed during the rebuild and then replaced and it violated Kansas law. I'm guessing the rivets were not the correct type perhaps?
He finally got the car back (after a bunch of hassle and legal fees) and the state amended the law somewhat, if the vehicle is 60 years old or older, it's exempt from VIN inspection. My jeep is 50 years old and I already have the Kansas title, but I was just thinking of the future if I sell the jeep and for some reason they have to do an inspection, not likely, it might be an issue if the VIN plate has been moved.
Thanks for the tips on the spot blaster and sander, I can always use more tools. I might give that process a try.

 

Another option: acid dip. I've used this outfit (Portland, OR) a few times with great results. May be a similar outfit near you. BTW, there will be no bond left after dipping.
https://www.americanmetalcleaning.com/end-user/

 

Dustless blasting is an option if you have someone nearby that offers that service.

I have a HF pressure pot and it’s super slow as far as blasting area is concerned.

 

I spoke with the dustless blaster here locally, 300 for the complete Jeep. Check around your area.

 

Wow! I would spend more than that on just beer if I did it myself. I may have to keep looking for a dustless blaster around my area. As I said most of the ones that I looked up appeared to be out of business. I will dig deeper, there must be someone out there in my area that will do it. Thanks.

 

1k is way too much. Look for a place that does powder coating. They do blasting to prep for coating. The powder coater i had blast my frame and the bottom of my tub charged 100 bucks each. If i wanted the entire tub blasted he said between 225-250.

 

This is what I did, cost was $400 for frame and entire body

 

Thanks for the replies on blasting options, it's really encouraging.
My info was from an old timer at a car show last year, he may have had too many wobbly-pops.

 

I don’t know a lot about jeeps, but I know a lot about sandblasting jeeps. Sandblasting the body with a HF type tank is certainly possible. I probably went though 800# of media at $14/50# and doing the job sucked. I used the fine coal slag from tractor supply. If you take this on, do yourself a favor and buy a very high capacity compressor. I bought an ingersoll rand that runs on 220. One of my favorite tools I have ever purchased.

One advantage of doing it yourself is that you know you did it up to your standards. I had my frame blasted and acid etch primed and I found places where blast media was primed.

The other advantage of doing it yourself is finding places where there are creases, folds, or spaces in your body that you never knew existed, because there will be blast media in it.

 

Got a sandblaster and a big Quincy compressor. It will work the compressor hard. I've done it before, but it is long, hard, time-consuming work. Proper respirators are a must. Silicosis is bad. Sand gets everywhere. Glad that's all done. For $400, I would get a professional to do it now. If you do it yourself, I set the pressure at 85 psi and shot the media at an angle glancing off the metal not straight on. I got really fine sand (years ago) and strained it and re-used it. Two much pressure and straight on in one spot too long will cause the metal to warp. I have made waves in a hood even trying to be careful (it was an import Toyota truck so thin metal). Make sure the blaster can do thin steel, so they won't warp the metal. I've heard horror stories about sand blasters ruining bodies trying to blast it like a bridge. Once it's cleaned, welding and body work are so much easier. The metal needs to be coated quickly once its stripped. It starts to rust again very quickly. I used to live out in the country and blasted the bodies and frames out on my extra lot. Lot's more neighbors now, I would probably hire it out if I need to do it again. Lots of better medias available now also.

Dave

 

Thanks for the advice. After reading several posts it seems it makes much more sense to have it done by a professional.

 

Don’t sandblast your Jeep body. It will warp and wave the sheetmetal terribly. Media blasting, water blasting, and chemical dipping/stripping are much safer for the metal. Sand blasting at higher pressures builds immediate surface heat as it abrades away the paint, causing the metal to warp.
Have a professional do this work, and save your lungs in the process.
-Donny