Screeching From Front Of Engine?

If you are doing bearings, might as well throw in a set of brushes.

 

Good point.

 

Well, I called the alternator shop here in Knoxville that all the FLAPs recommended for rebuilding my Motorola alternator. He says he can’t get parts for it to do a rebuild

So now I’m looking for a replacement that doesn’t require a mod to the bracket that attaches to the engine block

Starting to do the searches on this site to see what others have used

 

What bracket mod would that be?

 

Yeah, I have it off now That’s my plan this weekend

I’m sure there’s one out there. Can’t imagine it being too difficult. I’d like to be able to keep a functioning alt light on the speedo

 

Read some posts on the forum where replacements required modding the bracket to get the belt to line up

haven’t looked into it much yet though

 

The Motorolla alternator I took off of my CJ5 had a short nose pulley which most do. I swapped in a Delco without needing to modify anything.

 

I did not know that. My 12SI bolted right up with no mods and the belt/belts line up.

 

Good to know Would you mind sending me the info of the one you are using?

 

Can you send me the info on that one as well if you have a chance?

 

This is the reference I used when doing the alternator. Larger charging wire with 94 amps and re-clock of alternator for my preference.
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/delcoremy.shtml

 

sounds like I misinterpreted what I was reading. Thanks for helping to straighten me out. I continue to learn

 

I got a 12 SI that is a 94 amp from Auto Zone. it did fit on my 304 with some mild mods to the mount. The original was like yours a motorola 35 amp. If all that is wrong with your alternator is a bad bearing, take t apart and look, likely you can just replace the bearing. Not very complicated to do. If you do get a new alternator just get a Delco 12SI. With a 3 wire hook up, which you will need to keep your amp light. You will no longer need your voltage regulator as the 12SI(systems integrated) has the voltage regulator built in, very simple to wire up, Repair parts/rebuild kits for them are cheap and readily available for them. And you can keep your amp light in the speedometer and have a volt meter too. Not to mention almost 3 times the amperage. BTW the 3 wire alternator will perform much better than the one wire units will.
On edit: Be sure to read the link vtxtasy posted for you at mad electrical. it will help you understand just how simple it is and why a 3 wire is far superior to a one wire alternator.

 

Thank you! I appreciate the info

 

Another thought, should you need to swap out the pulley on a 12SI keep in mind the 12SI has a special pulley with a special cooling fins that the 12SI needs to cool its self well. Madd electrical explains this. Also a pulley from another alternator (motorola) may fit the shaft but the cooling fins will not be as efficient. Also if you need to make adjustments to the pulley depth/location a spacer can be used under the pulley to change belt alignment a little if needed. I have the part number and box out in my shop if you want the A-Zone part number let me know.

 

The fan and maybe the case are special. The pulley not so much as I changed to a double pulley. The 12SI does cool better.

 

Be sure to ground the alternator directly to the ground cable for the battery.

 

Ah, now that you mention it you are correct the cooling fan and pulley are separate parts on the 12SI. And yes the cooling is far better on the 12si and the 10 and 12 SI cases are the same size overall.

 

I might be able to use that P/N