Intake Valve Seal Replacement Suggestions

Preparing to install intake valve seals on a F134
Planning on using an air compressor to keep the valve in place. Any other helpful hints would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance !!

 

This is on my "to do" list.

I'm thinking perhaps to have back-up compressor and hose on line with a cut-over valve.

 

I guess you probably already know this but anyway, be sure to put the pushrods back in original positions. Also be sure to plug the pushrod and oil drain back holes and such so not to drop in valve locks.

 

I recently used this method to replace a broken valve spring in my big block Corvette. I assume it will also work on the F head.
Simple, easy, and no worries about losing air pressure. In fact, the car sat for several days while I sourced the replacement spring.

Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Remove the spark plugs.
Manually rotate the engine until #1 piston is about 45º BTDC.
Stuff as much cotton clothesline rope into the cylinder as you can via the spark plug hole.
Rotate the engine, trapping the rope between the piston and the valve.
Remove the spring collets, retainer, and seal.
Replace the seal. Reassemble.
Rotate the engine backwards far enough to pull the rope out.
Repeat on cylinders 3, 4, & 2, in that order.
Reinstall the spark plugs.
Reattach the battery cable.
Vroom, vroom.

 

I like the rope trick = a lot less anxiety!

But I wonder if it is reliable in a f-head shaped combustion chamber.

 

Me too. That's why I said I assume it will work. You're on your own!

 

Yep, the valves are offset to the side not directly over the piston.(if I remember correctly) so I am gussing it might not work as well in the jeep motor. However the compressed air way will work fairly well,( Takes an air compressor with a good deal of volume though) at least it did for me the only time I changed seals with the head still on the motor.

 

The intake valve is directly over the piston, so it will work. Might be a little. tricky feeding the rope in.

 

Ah good diagram, been a while since I worked on one. Might be that the valve is offset to the front or back a little and not directly over the piston, might look at a photo of a head gasket for clues. Again I just can't remember for sure.

 

Another diagram.

I might wonder if the rope piled up at the chamber left-hand side (as pictured), maybe it could block the piston rising and wouldn't get enough push on the valve? Luck of the draw, maybe.

Let us know!

 

The “compressed air in the spark plug hole” method isn’t fool-proof. If the piston isn’t exactly on TDC, the compressed air can push the piston down in the chamber, possibly opening either valve enough to lose pressure. This isn’t that much of an issue on an F-head as on a conventional V6/V8. Hopefully, you haven’t pulled the keepers off before this happens.
The rope method works very well with the F-head big intake valve setup.
-Donny

 

Ahh; much better cutaway diagram of an actual F134 than the generic one I posted. Thx.