Need Help Confirming I’ve Got The Dana 44 Power Lock (or Powr-lok) I’m Looking For.

Now when you say “tester bearings”, are you referring to a set of bearings that have grounded out some so they slip on and off the shaft of the power lock easily?

I rebuilt my Dana 44 last year. I probably have less than 500 miles on it. Anyway,I used brand new bearings for the carrier at the time. If I pull those bearings off, can I reuse those for the power lock?

 

I ordered the clamshell style puller this morning off of Amazon. I should get it in a couple of days. After I get the old bearings off the power lock, I'm going to attempt to take it apart. Not knowing the difference between what a good clutch pack vs a bad clutch pack should look like, I'll post some pics and hopefully I'll get some more great advice on the direction I need to go.

 

You can put the carrier in the freezer and the bearings in the oven. The bearings will fall into place.

 

I received the clamshell bearing puller I ordered today. I’ve gotta say, it’s pretty slick. I had both bearings off of the power lock in about 5 minutes and the best part is the bearings were not damaged in any way. If you’re on the fence about getting one, do it. I wish I had this when I rebuilt my Dana 44 last year. It would have save me time and money!

I’ll be cracking open the Power Lock tomorrow to have a look at the clutch plates.

 

I got this thing torn apart this morning, and in my opinion, these clutch pads look shot. I don’t think they’re supposed to have grooves in them like this? Is it definitely clutch pack replacement time? And if so, anybody have any good recommendations on the right set to purchase?

 

When in doubt, throw 'em out. You don't want to tear it apart again any time soon do you?

 

I picked up a set from a company called justdifferentials.com on sale for $21.00 plus $9 shipping. Figured WTH, I’ll give it a shot.

 

I’ve took apart the power lock yesterday and gave it a good scrubbing. Everything has been disassembled in the order I found it and it’s ready to be reassembled the same way when I receive the new clutch’s. But I have a couple of questions before i do.
You should be able to see in the photos two parts, I don’t know what they’re called, but they seem to hold the gear that the spider gears rotate on. I’ll call them cups. The “cups “ seem to have a wear pattern inside of them. There’s a bottom one and a top one. The wear patterns look different inside of both cups. The reverse side of the cups I was told to give them a light sanding with a 400 grit sandpaper to remove the glaze on the bottom because that’s where the first clutch will ride. But inside the cups I was wondering if I should give those a light sandpaper job as well to remove some of the wear marks that you see in the pictures. Should I leave well enough alone, and just reassemble the way I found it?

 

The wear on these side gears is normal in appearance.
As long as there is no peeling or wear thru on the front/rear hardened surfaces, you are good to go.
The splines look good as well.

 

Typical wear pattern. These cups are so hardened, your sanding may “matt” the polished areas, but there is nothing to be gained. Just put them back together. Some of my PowrLok gears and cups are so polished they look like they are chrome.
I’m surprised at the low cost of of the new friction plates, and would be suspect of the quality of them. Your originals didn’t look that bad. Scratches are OK as long as there are no deep gouges. I would sand your originals with something like 320 grit paper to see how they clean up. I know the original plates are quality. Check the Country of origin/brand of what you receive.
-Donny

 

Donny, thanks for the advice about the cups. I received the new clutches yesterday and they seem to be good quality. The original price was $121 and they’re on sale for $21. Here’s a link if you want to check themhttps://justdifferentials.com/dana-...M44H9hKAZWkeGD4IQ8SOcu-HMeygRvbBoCl50QAvD_BwE

I’ve got the new clutches soaking in 90 wt overnight. Tomorrow I’m going to attempt to reassemble. I was considering buying another set to stash for the future given the sale price. Maybe I won’t and I’ll just clean up the old ones.

 

I got it all put together this afternoon. No easy task. I was lucky to have an extra 19 spline axle laying around that I could use to line up the gears inside the power lock. As the bolts got tighter around the top of the power lock in a pattern, I would go back and forth with the axle to make sure that the splines were lined up. When the bolts began to get tight, I torqued them down to 60 foot pounds. So as it sits on my bench, I can place the axle all the way down into the power lock on both sides. However, now that it’s completely tighten down, I cannot turn the inner gears inside by hand with the axle, it is extremely tight. I’m assuming that’s normal?

 

Does anyone know what part numbers for a set of Timken bearings for this power lock? What was on there was Bowers cup and cone 25577 and 25523.

 

Bower, Timken, NTN, and SKF numbers are all the same. You could use your old ones as set-up bearings.
https://www.amazon.com/Timken-25577-Axle-Bearing/dp/B000BZ50SQ

 

Alright, got the short axle off first. Out of time today, I’ll have to wait until Sunday to tackle the other side

 

And I checked my backlash on the open carrier. Spot on! I think anyway…