Dana 30 Inner C Removal

On a cj5 it requires cutting out a portion of the hat channel brace on the inner fender. I can see leaving them in the front with the body up and shaft down.

 

That looks clean and stock. Any chance of it getting in to the tire when stuffed?

 

Not so far. But it's 61" wms. It also went through a few trails last summer with just touching the RF fender, but no shock contact.

 

Oh yeah. I forgot you went to the darkside. Any guesstimate on on a narrow track for clearance?
Did you use the tall or short brackets and what is the distance off the frame to shock loop?

 

Fixed…

brake lines done bled.

 

Ok, so I drove this heap around. The steering is better but it wanders a bit. Is that toe in or toe out? Not like I'm gonna get an alignment.. Everything is better up front.. Haven't hooked up the ox locker yet..

After thinking about this, my jeep does handle better. I feel al lot better about the removal of the caster shims as it now has there center bolt all the way in the spring perches. The pinion axle seems better and the return to center while driving is about perfect.

So, I fixed a couple issues.. The tie rod and drag link ends were not correct with both of them in the outer C. They are just too big to sit side by side and needed clearance to do so. This did not allow for proper seating of the rod end in the taper and gave me death wobble once and some bump steer issues. The rod end that has the integral hole for the drag link fixed that issue.

I also replaced all the brake lines and hoses while I was at it because, why not? I also replaced all the mismatched hubs/spindles, ball joints and bearings with new. The crown stuff is fine. Way better than the old junk off fleabay.

It was really fun to blast around the city. I even went to Ft Totten, a civil war earthworks fort thats a park and drove it as fast as I could on some dirt road.. Jumped it high enough to make my seat belts just about strangle me...

One more thing... Every flare I made was right. Not a single one leaked the first time.... What happened?

 

Try a little more tow in and drive it. Castor will affect it also and a short wheelbase with quick steering. Need more pictures of your "junk".

 

You do not need more pictures of my junk......If you want to see all the stuff I did to this pile of junk, just do a search for my threads. I posted about build a frame, transmissions, full float, etc..

I will make a couple turns in on the tie rod and see what happens. My WB is 92" or so.. I put 12" in the frame and body when I built it.

 

I have seen most of your threads but very few body pics.

 

I love your wisteria carport amost as much as the Jeep. That aroma is one of the things I miss in the springtime.
You have a decent flair tool if they all turned out the first try. It took me years to break down and buy a decent flairing set.
-Donny

 

if you can bear it, they are here..
http://www.earlycj5.com/xf_cj5/index.php?threads/116061/

 

Thanks. You have done an awesome job on this. Too bad photobucket.

 

OX locker electric actuator.

rocker switch

 

Today I finally had time to take out my jeep on a real drive. I had several issues I needed to correct. The caster is good now and no shims, The tie rods, drag link and ends are all correct now. I fixed some seating issues with the 1 ton ends in the D30 knuckles. I also took a good look at my steering UJoints. One of them from an unknown origin was bad. I replaced them all with new borgeson joints and splined shafts.

I took it out through town, hit every pothole, manhole and bad road area with zero bump steer, wander or death wobble. I took it out on the highway too, 60+mph with zero issues. I have no idea why, but ride quality is improved, possibly due to putting the shocks in in the correct orientation and there is less front end mechanical noise.

This is a HUGE improvement. Zero lash in the steering wheel and total driving predictability.

Thanks for following along.