Warn Hub Stud Part Numbers?

Does anyone have a part number for the studs to convert a set of Warn 10-spline hubs (Dana 25/27) from bolts? And in case they are different part numbers, I also want to convert a set of 19-spline (Dana 30) Warn hubs too.

I tried searching, but I didn’t have any luck.
Thanks!

 

I don’t have the part number, but don’t use the “warn” brand studs. They are junk.

 

I didn’t even realize Warn sold them…

If I can’t come up with part numbers, I considered just going into a Fastenal store with a wheel hub and locking hub and seeing if they could measure and order something.

 

Warn used to sell a kit but I know they quit for quite a while. Not sure if they started again. The early kits were good but not sure when quality suffered. I’m guessing after Mike Warn sold the company.
Whatever you get, make sure the unthreaded portion fits down into the unthreaded portion of the hub. If you look in the threaded holes you will see an unthreaded recess. Otherwise the studs will walk back and forth in the holes damaging the threads and come loose. Potentially shearing the studs as well. You need that “shoulder” in the hub for the added support. The threads are 3/8” x 16 NC.

 

I've posted this before but I'm using ARP 8740 bolts with so far, great success. As Nick points out, having a full cross section (no threads) on the fastener through most of that hub thread recess is critical. If you have threads there, it doesn't matter what you use for fasteners, they will eventually loosen up. Threaded rod, grade 8 or not, is a REALLY bad idea. The 8740 bolts are stronger than grade 9 and torque to 45 ft-lbs. I also chase the hub threads with a bottom tap which usually nets you at least a couple more threads.

These are the ARP bolts I'm using on both drive flanges and one piece flanged axle shafts-you may need longer versions for some locking hubs:

 

X2 on these. I've had them on the '71 for a couple years now using Duffer's recommendation. They have never backed out and I use 4wd all them time running up and down the hills on the property.

 

Thanks for the info. The ARP bolts might be easier to find that the studs.
And thanks for the explanation about the unthreaded shoulder and the recess in the wheel hub. Now it makes sense why the bolts loosen over time. I’m converting the rear D44 to a full-floater, so I want to address this during the process.

 

The ARP bolts have conical seats and require using the beveled washers supplied with them if bolting to a flat surface. I didn't need them on my rear full float project because the Dutchman flanges were countersunk.

 

Thanks again for the info, Duffer. Those Dutchman flanged axles look really cool.
I’ll be going with locking hubs, since this is primarily for flat-towing.

I found that Warn does, indeed, still sell the hub stud kit. But at $110, and with questionable quality, I think I’ll go with the ~$20 ARP bolts and some Loctite.

 

I had issues with the 3/8 bolts and significant loosening of the locking hubs. I broke 2 bolts off in the hubs . To remedy that issue I drilled and tapped the hubs to 7/16 and drilled the locking hubs to as close a fit as possible for the stud shoulders. I then used permanent thread locker when installing the studs into the hubs. I might have a slightly bent housing that’s is causing this, but no issues since I did the repair.