1970 Cj5 Clutch Size(s)

Hello and thanks for taking time to read this.

I've got the body off my 1970 CJ5 V6, and am thinking now is as good as time as any to replace the clutch and throw out bearing since the Jeep was a barn find, when I look at clutch kits I see different diameters, and "flat flywheel spec."

It's the Dauntless engine, which clutch kit should I get?

Thank you!!

 

My 71 cable operated used luk 04021 with different throwout. Raised diaphragm not flat fingers. Rockauto shows 01029 flat type pressure plate wrong one..
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70 should be a cable clutch too.

 

10.4” to 10.5” cover plate with 1-1/8” hub diameter 10 spline.

 

This is the one I used on my ‘70 cj5/dauntless. I used the throw out bearing they sent with the clutch and it is working well so far.

 

Does it make a difference, 1970, vs. 1971? Thank you for your replies.

 

I've been struggling with my LUK 01029 not disengaging on a 68 cj5 V6. This kit seems to work for some, but many have had issues, it seems. I installed the kit and the clutch wouldn't disengage no matter what I tried. I then changed the bearing from the kit with a centerforce 1086 which was thicker. (I ordered an adjustable ball stud from summit, #700110 which did not fit) so I used the orig stud and a new LUK LF9813 fork.

There still isnt enough travel to disengage the clutch. I was able to get it to almost release cranking the pedal down with a rachet strap, but the fork bottomed out on the bellhouseing. I have a lot of travel before the T/O contacts the fingers. I have read here that the LUK04021 kit will work as it has taller extended fingers that will allow for more T/O travel. I am going to get a longer stud tomorrow, and will try that before ordering a new pressure plate.

 

I have a Dauntless with T14 out of a ‘71 CJ5 in my ‘65 and went with the Valeo 52641412 clutch kit from RockAuto after reading that the Luk 01029 kit doesn’t work for the application.

I am using the stock clutch fork and stud and I still had plenty of adjustability to give the me the required free-play travel prior to the T/O bearing contacting the diaphragm fingers and also get the pedal to grab where I am comfortable. I have about 250 miles on the rebuild and it’s all been working great so far.

I have read in another thread in this forum that the adjustable fork studs or longer studs work for this type of situation. Best of luck getting it all working and hope you get it on the road soon.

 

This link to Novak was a very useful reference for me. It talks about how to measure and select the right TO bearing.

it might be worth a quick read.

https://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/clutches-etc/

 

Guys if you are having this much trouble try this.

https://www.midwestbrake.com/brake_...tch and brake,a high quality thermal adhesive.
You send them your original they strip the old one down and reline it.

My transfer case brake shoes and clutch are the originals to my 71 cj5. I had them redone at Florida brake and clutch in 1993. It took them less than 30 minutes to do them. I was down on vacation visiting family, ran them down on my way to Disney World. A guy grabbed them off the counter asked what they were off of, the counter guy was busy with 2 other customers, by the time he got to me and I paid for them they were in a box on the counter. I opened the box to look at them, the guy said don’t touch them the paint is still wet. He wasn’t lying, they’ve been in my Jeep since then.

 

Is your original clutch a Borg and Beck Style?

 

I couldn't say for 100% certainty, to many years ago.