Paint Experts Question - Paint Types

Ain't nuttin' like a single stage, inky black paint job that has been fully color sanded and buffed. A depth so deep you can fall into it.

 

“We” spray S/H Permahyd Hi-tec. That said, I personally haven’t sprayed water, and still use solvent. There is a gallon of red Nason single stage sitting under my desk waiting for my Bro-In-Law to finish his CJ7.

 

I can’t answer this one. It seems like our lead paint has a new/different fresh air system every month (minor exaggeration). I think right now he actually has fresh air plumbed into the booths.

I just wear a charcoal half mask.

 

I haven't sprayed water based either.

 

Even better if the finish is sprayed to that gloss

 

Some great advice on painting. One topic that was touched on but I don't think it was emphasized enough was about sealing the paint underneath. I personally prefer to have everything blasted and epoxy primed but I realize that is not always feasible. From the sounds of what you are describing the current state of the Jeep paint you need to sand it and seal it with epoxy primer. Then start to build it up with you 2k surfacer primer. There is no substitute for quality materials. I have a dozen different blocks and paper grits, Stakebed is spot on about sandpaper grit. Don't get impatient if you want a quality job it takes time and patience. Stay away from using a DA it is not a finish tool. My typical sequence is, blast, epoxy prime, body work (includes shaping and sanding filler), 2 coats 2k, block, 1 coat 2k, block, repeat as required, sealer, base coat then clear. Some guys still prefer single stage but for the most part the majority of paint these days is 2 stage. The thing that sucks about bc/cc is cutting and buffing which takes hours of time after you spray the clear. I will often spray 3 coats clear sand and then spray 2 more coats, one car this summer I did a total of seven coats. Don't cheap out and buy HF spray guns, pick up a used Devilbiss on ebay. I use a Iwata for primer, Devibiss for basecoat and a Sata for clear. The TDS from the paint manufacturer will give you gun pressures and tip sizes to use. As far as paint brands go.....I used to use Dupont then I got a divorce and my ex-wife's uncle owned the paint store so I switched to PPG for a minute but hated the price. I buy quite a bit from Southern Polyurethanes (great phone support) and really like their products but they do not have any base coat so I order base from Chads Auto in Michigan it is Automotive Art brand base. Priced right and good stuff. I find it hard to beat SPI primers and clears I will admit I did 2 cars this summer both with AA base but one with SPI clear and one with PPG Vibrance clear and with my Sata gun I felt more comfortable or rather less rushed with with the PPG but the price difference was substantial. As far as the cups go-they are great if you are doing collision repair but otherwise don't bother, IMHO they waste paint for custom work.