That Ain't Gonna Work.

Joe I was wrong about my master cylinder. The Corvette syle would not fit. Also I made a mistake on what I wrote about the 1 1/8" bore in the master. That was for a master mounted on the firewall with a power booster. I'm staying with my 1" bore master cylinder, sorry for the confusion

 

I knew what you ment

I haven't had any updates on this with hopes to get the pedal bushing or bearing situation sorted. I think I'm far enough with that to put the old back together. Then I'll bleed the brakes.
I've got a new tie rod so after that is in place I'll strap the knuckles to center and test the brakes and clutch.

 

I'm soo close to wrapping this up. I'm slapping it back together with the worn out clutch and brake pedals. I got all the measurements I need I'm just not in a position to mill the 1" bore of the brake arm to 1.181" or make a new frame bracket and turn a new pedal shaft. That all takes time and man hours but most importantly time in a machine shop.

I might have covered this earlier but the dual reservoir master cylinder seems to sit inside the frame quite a bit more than the single bore. I assumed it was just a matter of the single bore being thiner and not needing the clearance but I'm a good .5" maybe .75" off at the pushrod and pedal pin, it doesn’t even contact the end of the pin. My get-by for bleeding and leaking is a simple bushing over the old pin and inside the larger dual bore master cylinder. I've never heard of how people are getting around this but it's interesting and I feel like welding the steel bushing onto the steel pin on the brake arm is the best solution unless drilling out the existing pin and bolting in a new mess of bolt washers and bushing in place of the pin is better?
I might be able to run a die over the pin and tap a new bushing with extra most permanent thread locker but the old pin is really worn on one side.

20230110_123822 by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr