Spicer 18 Rear Bearing Retainer Swap Advice

I am swapping the rear bearing retainer of a Spicer 18 transfer case from a retainer that does not support a transfer case parking brake to the M38A1 specific parking brake rear bearing retainer. The transfer case is in good condition, so I was planning on just swapping the rear bearing retainer. Currently as assembled the rear shaft end play is 0.019. From the service manual for CJ5 and M38A1 this should be between 0.004 and 0.008 on a newly rebuilt transfer case.

I'm wondering if those with more experience have any advice to help me properly set the rear output shaft end play after I swap the rear bearing retainer. Should I target the end play of a new rebuilt transfer case (0.004 to 0.008) or should I target a number closer to what I currently measure (0.019) since the transfer case is not newly rebuilt?

 

You definitely want to be on the tighter side. Whatever shims you pull from the existing retainer I advise to clean up well, measure with a micrometer, label. Try to remove shims from the existing stack that will put you in the fsm ballpark. This generally takes patience putting things together dry, torquing and measuring multiple times. It is not a place to skimp.

I'm going through this right now changing retainers to delete the parking brake drum. My bearings new 2 years ago and endplay setup at . 002 are now out to . 011 Nickmil advised me to tighten it back up.

 

This is just like wheel bearings. You want to keep it snugged up. I always shoot for the low end of the tolerance when putting it together or reassembling, new or old bearings.

 

Thanks for the advice. I'll target the 0.004 to 0.008 rear output shaft end play from the service manuals.

 

Can't you just remove the drum and backing plate?

 

After you determine the combination of shims to get proper endplay you should apply a thin sealant to the shims before assembly. I like Copper Coat spray, or Permatex Copper Spray-A-Gasket.

 

I use the permatex copper spray gasket after cleaning everything up with acetone or brake cleaner.

 

You can but you have to use the output flange which has no dust shield. A standard 10 spline yoke with shield interferes before seating.

 

Food for thought

 

Yup.

 

I just did this on one I have. The transmission and transfer case came out of a Willys Pickup which didn't have the driveline parking brake. I am putting it into a CJ2A so I had to swap the tailpiece (retainer) with one from a CJ2A and add the parking brake components.

I may be mis-remembering, and if so someone will correct me, but I think the M38A1 was equipped with taller tires (7.00 X 16 ?) than a standard CJ2A. If accuracy is important you may need to swap out the speedometer gears.

 

Excuse me if this inappropriate but, to those who are switching out their non e brake bearing caps......please message me before discarding that piece. I may be interested in purchasing.

Nick......thats an interesting yoke. Haven't seen one like that. I guess you wouldn't call it a companion flange. Or would you? I suppose it would allow a person to use the e-brake style bearing cap while eliminating the e brake itself?

 

It’s the transfer case side flange. Factory Jeep. I have two of them here.

 

Dibs

 

Here’s a comparison of the park brake flange vs. the standard yoke. Not the dust shield on the flange is much smaller. The dust shield fits inside the housing instead of on the outside the housing.