How Does This 2g Choke Work?

I have a '53 3B with a '76 Buick 231 odd fire (at least according to the casting numbers on the block). The choke cable in the engine compartment was not connected to the engine when I bought the jeep. The choke cable housing had been twisted around some wiring to keep it out of the way. Not only that, the choke knob on the dash was frozen. I removed the knob and cable and dripped 3-in-1 oil in the cable end and let it sit vertically all night. This morning, I was able to loosen the mechanism, remove the cable from the housing, grease it, and put it back together. Then I made and installed a bracket for the choke cable.


So far, so good. The knob in the cab worked the carb choke. At least it worked it once. It turns out, as soon as the throttle is tapped, a mechanism on the throttle side of the carb is released and locks the choke plate from rotating. Perhaps this mechanism was part of '70's smog controls? Once the mechanism is released, there doesn't appear any way to reset the lock. Here's a picture of mechanism with the lock released, allowing the choke to move.


Here's a picture of the mechanism locked. When the throttle moves, it releases the green arm and the top bracket comes down and locks the choke plate. There doesn't seem to be anything connected to reset or lift the green arm to reset it so the choke can be reapplied.

Anyone seen this before? How is it supposed to work?

 

What you have was originally an auto choke carb. There was a choke housing at the base of the carb on the RH side and a link that connected to the choke where you have your cable hooked. The linkage on the LH side is the fast idle cam. The linkage is hooked up wrong, because the fast idle cam is engaged with your choke open, the cam should be dropped down with the choke open & raised (to increase idle speed) with the choke closed.

 

Yep like colojeepguy says, it's a automatic choke carburetor. You fast idle cam is hooked up correctly but is probably sticking. It's just gravity that pulls it down. It should move freely and if the choke is open and the throttle is opened a little bit to lift the idle screw, it should fall down to slow idle. You probably need to hit it with spray lube and work it a bit until it moves freely.

Here what it looks like from the factory:




The vacuum dashpots are "pull-offs" that open the automatic choke a little bit when the engine starts so it gets enough air. Since you are going manual, you can remove the remaining dashpot and block the vacuum port on the carb.

 

my manual choke 2G was a mess and missing some parts. I added a light spring to keep the choke butterfly open and the idle cam at the slowest setting. when I pull the choke knob, I stick a little alligator clip between the knob and the dash, keeping it choked while the engine warms up. Then I pull the alligator clip off, and the spring automatically gets me back to the low idle setting.