What Did I Buy?! (photo Heavy...sorry!)

Perfect! Thanks!

Montana is pretty loose about what's "legal" but I catch your point. Sounds like knuckles are pretty high on the new parts list, I'll go look those up.

I'll post the VIN later, after I'm home. Yes, clean title, matching tags, updated registration, etc.

For the ID of the xfer case and trans part, I've got a lift, so for step 4 it'll go up in the air to get all around it easily. That'll help in identifying what's what too. Meantime I'll see how far a creeper, flashlight, and cell phone camera get me.

Thanks all!

 

why is the center hole in the shackle used? why not the 2 outermost holes?

 

PO mod. Who knows. The PO could have cut off the extra length, and didn't. 2" further out would give an additional lift of 1". However, long long shackles are wobbly, and affect handling adversely.

 

They are probably not selectable lockers. They are most likely old-fashioned Detroit or Sparton lockers. They work by allowing one and only one wheel to turn faster than the axle at any given time (so you can go around corners) but NEVER allow either wheel to go slower than the axle so it's locked solid if tires are slipping. They tend to make ratcheting popping noises when going around corners and take a little getting used to because they transfer all the torque to the inside tire when turning. Their on/off torque transfer can make them a handful to drive in icy conditions, but they work well offroad.

 

Hey Fireball ,
Have you ever toyed with the Idea of being an ' Instructor ' ? I believe that you would be very good at it, My friend .

 

He's my instructor already, The number of messages in my inbox proves it!!

 

Good.......Pay him well ,Sir.

 

The definitive engine ID numbers are not stamped, but are raised large numbers cast on the side of the engine block. “304” “360” or “401” will be the most likely results from looking near the engine mount.
-Donny

 

Yep, that's it exactly. He said he had just lowered it by dropping into those holes.

Fascinating. Hmm, that'll be interesting to discover when it's up in the air! When I refill it, do I have to add any special lubricants to the diff oil, like I would with an LSD?

 

Ok, update time! Got out to the shop a few days ago. 5 kiddos in the house means shop time isn't nearly as plentiful as one could hope! But I made it through step one!

Got the top off, along with the doors.


Boy, sure is dirty in there!







Ohhh, Spare parts!


Speaking of spares...I assume this means the suspension isn't tuned quite right, so it's binding? These are center driveshafts, right?


Them: "Don't worry, these have really simple wiring".

Me:

Yikes. I've got my work cut out for me.


But, after a couple hours, I finally got it to a good spot! I'm ready to dive into the mechanicals of the engine now!







Here's how much garbage I took out of it! And this doesn't show the large cardboard box full of tools and spare parts that are still useful!



So, one quick question while I've got you. The copper tube running down the passenger side of the carb - any idea what it is? Is this a vent? Or vacuum line that should be connected to something? It terminates by wrapping around the exhaust manifold and ending in air. Let me know what you think.



Thanks all! Happy trails, we'll see ya soon!

 

Axle shafts.

Looks like a hot air source for the choke cover.

There are electric chokes and thermoelectric chokes. The thermoelectric type uses electricity and hot air from the neighborhood of the exhaust manifold (not exhaust gas) to heat up the bimetal element. Looks like it goes to that pinched-off end. Not elegant but likely effective.

 

Wow....Way to attack it
On another note...... when you may, Could you please find the worst one of those axle ends, cut off it's yoke, & sell it to me ???? I need one to make a tool for us.
Thanks
....Richie

 

Wire nuts are the worst possible hackery for this. They work ok in a wall where nothing moves.

Anything wired with zip cord (appliance wire) and wire nuts needs to be removed and redone. Be sure to trace it out before you disconnect anything, so you know what connects where.

Not complicated. Trace one wire at a time until it's all straightened out.

 

Yeah man, I don't see why not! I can't imagine it being all that useful to me. You pay shipping and it's yours. DM me details (where you want it cut, etc). Are these hard to come by? Or just expensive for a random tool part? Either way, happy to help and give back!

No kidding! It made me cringe big time. He's got it all kinds of funky, in time I'm going to redo all of it. Right now I'm going to minimize it and get power to ignition to get the engine running, then to start project clean up wiring. Between the cut loose wires and the wire nuts, this thing is a fire waiting to happen.


Thanks all for the tips and tricks! Excited to hear it run for the first time!

 

We still need pictures of the transmission and transfer case. Inquiring minds want to know.

 

Waytek Wire is the best place I've found for vehicle wiring supplies (thanks Willie!). You get USA made primary wire for about half what O'Reilly's wants for their chinese stuff.
https://www.waytekwire.com/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-e2W1t-J9gIVciGtBh2szQ7mEAAYASAAEgJNMPD_BwE

 

Patience, grasshopper. Ha! Today is new front springs on my 88 f250 day. Then the lift is freed up and I can get under the jeep.

Perfect! Headed there now.

 

The tube is worthless in it's present state.

It is originally used by being attached to the intake manifold heat crossover (stock AMC V8) or a tub running through the exhaust manifold (6 cyl). From there it attaches to a vent tube going into the area inside the air filter via a rubber hose. It works by pulling a small amount of clean air through the tube, which is then heated as it goes through the manifold and drawing that heated air up into the choke housing, aiding in the choke opening process. With it pinched off, it isn't drawing anything.
I would either wrap the tube around the manifold ( an old header trick) and attach it to the carb clean air nipple or remove it completely.

 

Correct if the tube is sealed. However, I think it's just clipped off with diagonal cutters, and not sealed. Apply a little vacuum to the carburetor end and see. Carbs with these chokes have a tiny vacuum leak built-in to the choke cover, and don't need much air flow to function.

Edelbrock manifold probably does not have the heater pocket that the original iron manifold has. The tube is in the exhaust crossover.

Dorman has a "choke stove repair kit" that's basically a piece of soft tubing. Not much to it... you're meant to wrap the tubing around the manifold. Same idea. https://www.jegs.com/i/Dorman+Products/326/03840/10002/-1

 

It needs to be either sealed or connected to the fresh air nipple on the air horn. Otherwise it will be sucking dirty air into the engine. If the option is to keep it sealed, then you might as well remove it and clear it out of the way.