Make Your Own Soft Top (12/2021) Ref Md Juan Tub Build

if it ran good till the crank shaft noise
pull the oil pan . inspect the thrust bearing

 

Thanks for your feedback. I just saw a note on-line to check my crankshaft nut tightness first.

But the Crankshaft pully nut torque spec seems to be absent from my FSM and from the Ludel Rebuilder's Manual, but 100-120 ft-lb has been offered elsewhere on line and may have been referenced in a Jeep Wagoner manual (?). I had a LOT of problems with my crankshaft threads and had to hand file them to clean them up to accept the original factory specified nut, so... hmmmm.

I'll search a bit longer for the "proper" torque and give that a try first.

 

I have wanted to sew some matching canvas doors for a few years but only spent a bit of time on it here and there. But during my F134 engine rebuild, I've had several delays, and I found more time to play with the doors.

I followed a path similar to the canvas top, building first in cardboard, then using a Harbor Freight tarp, then a practice assembly from scraps.



That's where I am right now. Here's the door made from scraps:



It turned out ok for a first try, but not perfect. 'Good enough to use while I do the driver's side next.

 

On my doors there is a horizontal strip of fabric between the upper and lower windows. Gives the window a place to fold and keeps the horizontal bar from scuffing the window.

 

im gonna have to check this thread out further. My CJ is gonna need a top, and I have the machines to sew one…….

 

You can likely tell I made my windows a bit oversized. I always feel a bit blind in my covered Jeep. I found a correct passenger side mirror, but you need to look out the door window to see it.

I also put a split in the window, first because I was using scrap clear vinyl, and second because I wanted to try out the idea for being able to handing something out dispite a closed door. 'Not a great success.

Doors are hard. The large cut out for the window makes the material floppy and it's tough to get it aligned back where it belongs for matching pieces or locating the window. Even with match marks and patterns and traced edges, I struggled to get something I wasn't embarrassed to use.

I will add the cloth you suggested if it doesn't block my mirror, thanks.

And the metal frame and handle are going to be painted black.

 

Here's the best pic I have on hand of my doors.

 

Another benefit to a 'split' window. One very frosty (zero-degree) morning many years ago, I unzipped my driver's door window and went to fold it down. Instead of folding as designed, the clear plastic simply snapped off.

 

Ouch.

 

I see you have a different metal frame than I do, but a removable or foldable top window is an attractive idea. Oh, boy... I'll have to learn to sew zippers.... Yikes!!

 

I actually enjoy assembling my sewing pieces but my old Singer has a problem I can't solve.

 

Yeah it's weird, my vinyl bestop fastback is basically a canvas half cab frame with a hinged bow that is in the same location as the bow socket and the door frames can fold for storage. All the brackets, rods, and tubes are in the same physical location as a canvas top.

 

bummer on the 111... those things are like a tank. they just keep going....

 

Have you found this company?
Sailrite: Fabric and Sewing Supply Store

Some great videos and they sell tools to do the job. I am getting ready to make the top for my CJ6. Luckly for me I have a friend that bought all the tools for a boat project he was working on.

 

Ill second Sailrite. Thats where I get the supplies for most of my boat interiors. For actual canvas, I get stuff like that from Big Duck Canvas

https://www.bigduckcanvas.com/

 

I did my entire top on my 111, but every 3 minutes I had to remove the bobbin and the multiple wraps under it.... grrrrr.
I have not looked hard enough for the repair videos... Duh.

 

I'm sorry I can't help much with suppliers... I started about 8+ years ago, did just this one project, and picked and scrounged mostly. If I can find any old references, I'll add them.

 

Also find the jpet (member) series on the cj2apage forum. It's much better and more complete than mine.

 

We had friends visiting from Switzerland this week and booked a tour of the New Wilmington PA Amish country (who originated in Switzerland). On one stop we got a close look at their buggies and I noticed they use the "LIFT THE DOT" fasteners (!) to hold their leather side doors closed.



So I asked if there was an Amish buggy builder near by, and found one 5 minutes away.

So I bought 10 complete sets... $9.



Here is where they go:



I'll add a photo once I get them installed. But after two wonderful weeks of visitors, this old body needs a bit of recovery. Even the dog wants a day off

 

That's a smokin' price. I use those (in black) on military canvas. Good choice.