Finally Building The 67 F100

On a side note, I didn’t paint the axle because it still needs a good scrub. And when I finally get the larger wheels I’ll be welding on the new caliper brackets for the rear discs. I mocked them up last night and it appears the rear inner wheels are about 1/2” too shallow to fit the calipers. The frame forward of the bed will be painted when the body comes apart for paint.

 

Late update.
Got the brake lines from the master cylinder to rear drums built on Saturday. The wife came down and pumped brakes for awhile while I leak checked and bled. It’s a runner and a driver again. I think I’m going to order a different adjustable brake rod, have the rotors turned, and still need to get front tires so she’ll steer without hitting fenders.
I’m headed to the barn in a bit to bolt on the bed and wire the tail lights back up. Then it’s time for a test drive down the hill and back. I may even get it up to speed at the bottom and check for driveline vibrations and of course see how she rides.

 

Here’s a quick picture of the bed reinstall. Hopefully for the last time for awhile

 

Today was a great day.
The bed is bolted on (save 2, I needed longer carriage bolts). The taillights are wired. Lug nuts are torqued. Gave a final leak check, and took it for a spin. It went fairly well but there was a clicking from both front tires. After I got home I found the source. The stick on wheels weights were clipping the calipers. After knocking the offending weights off, no more clicking. I ordered tires, then figured what the hell, and drove into town to get a second opinion on the tire size. He ended up ordering two sizes to ensure one should work. The winners i suspect are 215/75r15. Vs the 30/90.5/15 on there now, the front fender clearance while turning should be alleviated. I’ll keep running the 30’s on the rear. They are great for rolling burnouts and I they’re better for freeway speeds.

Otherwise I’m extremely happy with the changes. The ride is much much better. The front needs slightly firmer shocks but the variable blazer coils up front are very good. And the rear is soft but controlled. For the rear I used gas shocks for a front C10 application. The brakes are pretty good. I’ll pull them apart and turn the rotors and probably do ceramic pads here shortly. And I think I’ve found the sweet spot for the rear brake bias setting. And lastly, there’s no drive shaft vibration at any speed or throttle application. It did pick up a vibration going to town but that was after removing those wheel weights and it was mellow and new tires/balance are happening tomorrow so not a concern.

 

Looks fantastic at the new ride height!

 

Thank you very much dude. It’s crazy but I’ve wanted a 67 f100 with this stance for 25 years. I’m over the moon about this look.

 

Here’ the final stance and new tires. I wish I’d gone a bit wider but no rubbing at all so that’s alright. I really like the staggered look. But these tires and wheels are here for a good time, not a long time. I’ll run it around for awhile like this until I can get some more funds raised for the TKX trans swap.

I think the long term plan is to get the mechanicals, brakes and trans done sooner than later. Get the bugs worked out. Then probably later this year I’ll blow it apart and do body, paint and a full rewire.

 

the TKX… now we’re speaking the same language!

 

Ya dang it. You sold me on it. And the higher stall c4 is fun when getting after it but super annoying climbing my hill or driving at mid throttle.

 

This little truck has been a blast. I’ve been driving the crap out of it this summer despite nearly $5 gallon gas prices. Last Saturday we took it to the local cruise night then Sunday we took it and the wife’s Falcon about 40 minutes north to the local 1/8th mile drag strip to finally test and time the falcons new 460. The trip went great. Anna dove the f100 while I trailered her Falcon. At the end of the day we both knocked 4/10ths of our initial runs. Hers by tuning, mine by learning to get it off the line without slicks out a very functional lsd. The day was mostly about the Falcon though and it really impressed. It ran out of the power on the big end, I believe due to the full length 2.5” exhaust being too restrictive for her big block.

 

Oh our times. yes she walloped me 8/8 runs. Even the one she mixed up the line lock procedure and the line lock stuck her rear brakes on for the entire run.
My best was a 9.3 at 78mph
Hers was 8.30 at 88mph.
that puts me in the 14s and her in the high 12’s in the quarter. And there’s more to give. Uncorking her exhaust, ditching the mechanical fan and an advance spring change to a lighter spring should make a nice dent in that.
This morning I gave the Cleveland a proper compression check after driving to town and back. All holes are around 150psi except number 5…. It’s 90….. jumps to 150 tested wet. I really should address this in the off-season.

 

Well I suppose by liven up the Cleveland I meant build a big block. There’s a fella up north in Tacoma that specializes in building these old ford big blocks I found surfing forums seeing if my free d3 heads were worth building around. At that point I realized I could have these heads ported to flow like the wife’s dove-c heads but without her 11:1 compression ratio, meaning pump gas territory. Furthermore matching those ported heads to a zero decked block and a domed piston to dial the compression ratio should make for a more competitive racing experience next year.

We’ve been working in clearing out the fella that built Anna’s 460/the father in laws good friend’s shop he built many engines. He had a complete d3 headed 460 so I bought it. Before testing it down I realized the water pump was still a factory ford casting number. In fact everything in this engine was. The bore appears to be stock and the internals while used and abused, don’t appear to be terribly worn. Mostly just coked oil from long oil change intervals.

 

Just saying: https://jonkaaseracingengines.com/shop/cylinder-heads/kaase-sr-71-cylinder-heads/

 

Looks like a fair price.

 

I would love those but probably won’t be in the budget. Honestly Anna’s 460 needs these badly. 11:1 compression with iron heads =super expensive to run using 92 and 110 at shot a 50/50 mix. I have two pairs of d3 heads now that’ll get the mad Porter treatment. Scott, the owner of parkland machine, finished 3rd in the 2006 engine masters, behind john kaase if I recall. He has a recipe for some off the shelf parts like voodoo cam, dome pistons and head work to get 450-470hp on 92, or 425hp on 87 depending on compression ratio.

 

Well I suppose it’s time to do a quick update. Last fall while taking the boy to his soccer game the c4 pump came undone. I looked in the rear view and saw the James Bond smoke screen and the trail of red tears on the ground. Luckily I was just coming into town so shut her down and coasted to a parking lot. From there she started once to find the leak, and parked untouched until today. We did the car shuffle yesterday and I got the trans pulled today and dropped off at the shop for a rebuild. It’ll get Beefier clutches, shift kit and it looks like another torque converter if toss one inhaled metal debris? Which is annoying because this B&M hole shot 2400 stall is only a few years old. If it needs replaced I may try a Hughes

 

While I’m waiting for the trans to get done I figured I’d edit the transmission crossmember. It would immediately catch my attention for all the wrong reasons every time I got under the truck. It’s a product of me being lazy. I’d bent up that tube one with a plan that didn’t work because I couldn’t get my bender to do tighter bends. So I dropped it off at the exhaust shop and had them address the crossmember while doing the exhaust. Well I have a plan now. I made some adjustments to the tube unit. Tomorrow I’ll pick up some .120 wall 2x4” square tube. Then rip them in half at about 6” lengths, 45 the open ends to gusset up the tube, tapering down to the bolt mounted part. Then another piece will be cut off and become the isolator mount. I’m tempted to shift the trans mount up to move the driveline to a more ideal angle, but the previous setup with the shaft running uphill to the diff did work fine.
For reference in case someone is just joining, the headers exited directly into the stock crossmember so there was no way to tie an exhaust into them. And there’s no long tube headers I’m aware of for a 67 f100 with a Cleveland. That and we already owned these headers, having removed them from the wife’s 70.5 Falcon when we did the 460 swap.

 

Since Good and some bad today.
The good-finished the trans crossmember. It just needs paint and holes drilled but I sent the mount to the trans shop still attached to the trans so that’ll have to wait.
Also I’d ordered a cheap pan with a drain plug and Lubelocker pan gasket so I dropped those off at the trans shop. They’re going to dive into the c4 Monday so I’ll know more about the torque converter status then.
The bad-I pulled the 9” carrier to replace what I thought were trac-lok clutches. Nope, it’s the crappy equalok. I really really want to swap in an Eaton trutrack but they’ve shot up over $100 in price in the 2 years since I’d ordered the 31 spline version. Grrr. So I’ll probably just order clutches for the equalok and run it for now.
Also I was measuring for headers collectors gaskets to order new remflex gaskets and found the exhaust shop has installed 2.5” collector gaskets on a 3” collector. It probably doesn’t amount to much restriction but I was really annoyed with that.

 

The transmission is back from the shop. And they found the source of the pump leak. The bolts had backed off of the pump/bell housing mounting bolts, as noted with the cracked and broken bolt holes. Luckily I had an extra bell housing I dropped off this morning so they could finish assembly. I also have a bunch of gaskets ordered to seal up the engine.

 

Today was engine pulling day. And with the first 70 degree day I opted to do as much as possible outside. Im still undecided on the oil Pan situation. I like the Molidon one ok but getting torque converter nuts on is a huge pain. I may go back to the stocker front sump and just funnel oil off the crossmember when doing oil changes. Another note is i settled on a direction with the ring issue. It dawned on me the other night I don’t need to re rebuild the engine. I’m going to pull the one piston and hit it with the dingle ball hone and just rering the one using moly rings, like the rest, and hope it breaks in correctly this time. I’ll checks few bearings while I’m in there. Then reseal everything, change intakes from the regular performer to the performer rpm air gap one I’ve had in the shelf for a bit, and reinstall with the new trans mated up.
Here’s a few shots with the engine pulled and after degreasing and pressure washing. It’s incredible how rusty everything got despite spending the winter in the big carport. There’s still a ton of moisture in that thing.
One last note, Anna got is into the Olympic rally, a drag and drive up by Bremerton I believe. So I have about a month to get this thing sorted and get the her Falcon ready. We’re pretty excited about it.