I just pulled the front right side hub off my CJ5 to upgrade the brakes to 11". Finishing up an upgrade to 11" brakes all four wheels on my CJ5 the last one being the right side front. On the driver side front I found that two of the spindle bolts had been overtightened at some point and stripped. The stripped threads had been "repaired" with Helicoil inserts. Not my favorite fix, but will do for now until I find another knuckle, or convert to studs, but these will hold at 35lbs. On the right front hub I had a devil of a time getting the hub off the spindle. Whomever serviced the Jeep years ago had over tightened the spindle nut causing the inner bearing to heat enough the inner race was practically welded to the spindle. After about an hour with a serious slide hammer and other tools I finally got the hub to pull free leaving the seal (melted) and bearing attached to the spindle. I encountered the same thing on a Model A Ford when I was a kid and I had to cut the bearing off and polish the spindle because I didn't have a spare one. At that time my father explained what had happened and showed me his method of setting the bearing preload by feel. In this case I had a good spare spindle, so I tossed the burnt one, and replaced it. That experience with the Ford taught me something, so I decided it might save somone some grief if I describe how I set the bearings. It is important to do this the right way and while others may have a different method this works for me. This is how I do it, and while it is close to what is in the TSM I usually have to tweak the suggested 1/6th turn and go just a bit more. 1) When a front bearing is serviced whether just repacking with grease or replacing the bearing it always needs to go back with a new seal. 2) With the inner and outer bearings packed and assembled in the hub the hub is placed on the spindle and the smaller washer in the service pack goes on, then the spindle nut should be tightened until resistance is felt on when turning the hub. I usually torque to 50 lbs to make sure the bearings are seated then back off just a bit where the hub will turn with some resistance and no play. 3) This is the important part! Once the bearings are seated the nut needs to be backed off approximately 1/6 of a turn which is the distance between two of the drive flange bolts. You should be able to feel just a bit of play when you push and pull on the hub. 4) Then the bigger washer and lock nut are installed, but before bending the washer onto the nut check to make sure you still have that bit of play. I have sometimes found that installing the lock nut and washer will cause it to tighten up a bit. If no play is detected, remove the lock nut and washer and back off the spindle nut just a little more. If the bearings are too tight they will burn, if too loose they will get hammered, but a tiny bit too loose is preferable to being even a tiny bit too tight.