Rig Won't Shut Down. This Is A First For Me.

OK, so this one's a head-scratcher for sure, fired up my rig after a few weeks of sitting, and it's purring fine other than having to put a jumper pack on the battery. I go to shut it off, and it won't shut down. Hmmm... so I pull the negative battery connection and it's still running. (wth, right?)

I then pull the postive cable, and the jeep is sitting there running with no battery at all.

I try to cover the intake and i'm not getting any response - probably need a better tool to stifle the airflow. (got a bit stressed here, since I accidentally touched the choke and it was revving pretty high around 1500 or so.)so, only other thing I could think of was to pull the coil wire, consequently giving myself a nice little shock, which shut everything down immediately.

This was a couple days ago, and I have since swapped out the ignition switch to rule it out. (the wires were removed one by one, and are 100% the same as they were on the old switch)

I just tried it again, and again, fired up just fine with a jumper box, but again also, it wouldn't shut down. Had to pull the coil cable (ouch) again.

 

Yikes! Hope you can figure it out.

 

Does this look familiar? https://www.howacarworks.com/ignition-system/curing-running-on

 

only thing that comes to mind . is it's getting power (coil ) from starter solenoid (hot)

 

Yes, I'd start with two culprits: the regulator via the exciter wire (usually connected by a resistor or the ALT light), or the starter solenoid. The solenoid can have a terminal that bypasses the ballast resistor for starting. If that's hung up, it could send power to the ignition regardless of the key position.

A 198 should have a Delco starter, and their solenoids are a very common service part. I don't recall the Delco circuits, but it should be laid out in the TSM.

You have not added any new accessories or other electrical gadgets recently?

Ignition switch is another possibility, but those usually fail open (ie won't start or run, not the opposite).

 

no new gadgets. Thanks for the two possibilities. I’ll check those out!

 

Somehow your getting power to the ignition circuit after the switch. is the coil hot before you turn the switch to run or crank? Also is the coil on acc circuit or the alternator on ignition circuit at the switch.

I blame mice.

 

Not sure, I can check those things and report back.

 

I’d follow the wires from the ignition switch to their ending locations. My guess is that two wires are touching somewhere without insulation.

If this is the problem, you will likely be able to wiggle on the wires and get the engine to stall while running with the key in the off position.

 

Could be haunted

 

i'd just reach in with a set of well insulated pliers and cut the coil wire, and keep an extra on hand.

 

Well after a couple 20-30min sessions under the hood and under the dash, REAAALLY considering starting a thread called "Brian's electrical re-fresh". I don't see bare wires, and it failed the wire wiggle test at least where I wiggle it.

This if far from the first issue i've had with the bubba'd rat's nest of wiring. My harness is far from factory, with wires routed in a very "why not/who cares" fashion. This is in addition to the dead/drained battery I have found in the last couple weeks without an obvious drain.

As far as the voltage regulator - it's connected to a 3B/CJ5 12v generator that was grafted on this V6. can't see any markings to find an "I" wire.

The starter solenoid - I put eye's on it, but I don't have a gameplan for troubleshooting this.

When it's running it charges between 13.5 and 14.3 volts, so it seems like the generator is working ok, but with volts on the high side, maybe that points somewhat towards the regulator?

 

Top and bottom posts have power with the key in the off position.

 

simple disconnect the red one - test for voltage
if power found with key off . trace wire back to source
do same with white wire

 

Got it, okay. I’ll do both tests. Red wire goes to starter terminal. Didnt have time to crawl under and see which one. White wire goes to ignition switch, i think, but i’ll double check that when i have a moment.

Question:
Is the thought that these wires are getting a 12v feed from somewhere they aren’t supposed to like a normal-open switch stuck in the closed position or two wires touching (one of which comes from the positive side of the battery?)

 

The factory Motorola alternator will do this in the v6 model. Had to have a resistor wired into it to keep the alternator from back feeding it.

 

I have a generator grafted onto my 198 V6

 

most wiring system on starter solenoid
12V battery lug . battery cable / alt-generator wire / ign/acc wire to inside of car
two smaller studs (1) is starter wire from ignition switch. (2) is a ignition by-pass to coil only hot while cranking . some have it . others don't
like I said disconnect and test
back in my hoodlum days we could hot wire just about anything