11" Brake Drums - Swedged Or Not Swedged

Hello all

I am getting prepared to start rebuilding my rear end. Although it is a flat fender frame a PO did upgrade to 11" drums. As i did with the front, i installed all new bearings, seals, and brake parts including turning of the drums.

Since an 11" has been done, does this mean that the PO would have cut out any swedge so that the drums can just come off like the fronts? I am worried about having to deal with the swedge issues. Is it safe to assume that the 11" did not have this issue like the originals?

As i assume that the drums cannot be turned with the hub on....?

Thanks

 

Depends on what the po used for the conversion. If Lockheed cam adjust brakes were used then they may be swaged. If Bendix they should not be swaged. If you post a picture we can tell what you have. I didn’t watch your video but the hub Ed style drum for tapered axle can be resurfaced with the right attachment. I’ve done those and VW rear (think VW Bug).

 

My follow up question is.....With rear it appears the inner bearing must be pressed off and then a new pressed back on. How is the average joe dealing with this? Taking it to a shop to press for a cost or what are folks doing without a huge tall press?

 

Cut it off with a hacksaw, gas axe, or death wheel. Toss the new bearing in the oven at about 250F for a while, then just drop it onto the axle. That's how I've always done them.

 

Seriously that works without pressing?

 

He's describing the flanged axle. That has a one-piece axle with a pressed-on bearing and retainer ring. You can split the retainer ring with a chisel or other implement of destruction. and it comes off. You may still need to press off the old bearing. If you have a tapered (nutted, two-piece) axle, it's different.

 

Yes, I wasn't clear about that part. That is for the flanged style Dana 44. And yes, it works fine. It's how I've always done the wheel bearings on them, and other axles that used a pressed on bearing (Ford 8" and 9" axles, mostly) Sometimes you've got to give things a couple taps with a brass drift on the inner part of the bearing, or the retaining collar to get them seated, but it's a hell of alot less of a pain in the arse than using a press. If you can get the axle good and cold, that helps as well, it's basic thermal dynamics. Heating the bearing makes it "expand" a couple thousandths, and getting the axle cold "shrinks" it a little bit, giving you a little wiggle room. I do the same thing when installing bearing races, just toss em in the freezer for a bit, makes putting them in a heck of alot easier.

 

Yes I’ve heard and done similar things. I just figured it would be a lot harder or tighter fit in this situation. I guess I will try that. Maybe I’ll plan for when it’s cold outside, well California cold, and donut first thing in the morning.

 

I guess that getting the old off might be harder than putting the new on.

 

Yes, getting the old ones off without marring the axle itself can be the hard part. I typically recommend cutting *most* of the way through it with the torch/death wheel/hacksaw/whatever and then breaking it loose with a cold chisel.

Sometimes you can get away with knocking the bearing cage off of it, and then using a mig welder to run a bead around the part still on the axle, to expand it a little, and then drop the axle a few times on a block of wood to break it loose, generally you're not going to be transferring enough heat to the axle to worry about taking the heat treat off, like you would with a torch.

 

Isn’t it hardened steel so tough to cut through?

 

It certainly can be. I mean, if you're uncomfortable trying it yourself, I've got no issue at all recommending dropping them off at your machine shop and having them do them.

 

I'm loving the new inexpensive diamond wheels in a 4-1/2" angle grinder.

 

Have you looked over your Jeep real good, the Po may have changed the axels to get the 11" brakes, you may have newer axels than your Jeep. Just saying.

 

Obviously not