‘72 304 Exhaust Routing

Would anyone feel comfortable sharing a pic of their stock exhaust routing for an intermediate cj5 with 304? Studying what I could online, couldn’t find a real good exact pic, it appears after coming off the exhaust manifolds we tie together and then go up over the trans crossmember with the muffler starting above the crossmember area. Then run back over top of the rear axle, near the tank, then out over leaf spring/under frame behind wheel. Is the passenger side exhaust coming across under the trans primarily to connect up or a little further up mainly underneath the bellhousing? I’m starting to mock it up and there is a pretty tight turn to get connected in some kind of Y and go up and over the trans crossmember. Also don’t want to impede my clutch mechanism or get too close to the gas tank. First time doing exhaust from scratch.

 

Here is a '74 factory exhaust. Double into single. Cross over just in front of transmission, even with the skid plate/cross support. If you need a different pic/angle let me know. the body is off the frame for a bit longer.

 

That’s great, thank you! If you can, can I get one more at about the same angle I attached initially, just behind the driver front tire. Just want to see how it swings up over the trans crossmember before running back. I think that is the part I’m stuck on. It looks like the sides come together and then go up hill just a tad before starting their run back.

 

Here are a few pics from several angles. One thing to add. The way this is set up now, factory exhaust, doesn't seem to work with a 2" lift. I'm waiting till I get the body and winch back on to see if the new 2" springs setting a bit. But the front drive shaft will not currently clear the cross over exhaust. I may have to cut and drop it down about an inch or two more than factory. Which you can see is currently above the crossover, and skid pan. Take that into account as you fab up your crossover pipe.

 

Thank you sir! Just what I needed. I see how it works now. I’m planning to lift my body 1” just to make things a little easier to get to as I run the new fuel and brake lines and for maintenance in the future so hopefully I’ll be good with the stock style config. Your build’s really coming together. Congrats.

 

Keep in mind...lifting only the body of your jeep 1" as you indicated ,will not change the interference between the T-case front output > Crossover pipe > Driveshaft angle. If you are on stock flat springs and never plan to change that, you'll be good to go welding up your cross over pipe in stock location. But if you are putting lift on the jeep with springs or already on a spring lift, then you may run into clearance like I have with that crossover pipe in factory location. My solution is to wait and see when things settle with weight back on the jeep. And then if necessary (which I think it will be) I will cut the crossover and reconfigure it to be slightly lower to clear the T-case yoke driveshaft angle. I only need about 3/4"-1". For me that option is not a bad one, since I will not be wheeling this jeep. Ground clearance is not a factor on this one. My past builds where a full clocked T-case and flat belly pan was needed, I skipped the crossover and ran dual cherry bomb exhausts to the rear, with a flat belly pan skid. Not an option for this jeep project.