‘72 304 T15 Clutch Replacement And Throw Out Bearing

I’m replacing the original B&B 3 finger 10.5” clutch. The driven plate is worn down. The Luk ones that are B&B seem to all be 11” which is over kill as I’ve learned. I’ve read the posts about the pluses of switching to the diaphragm style PP. Was looking at this one from Sachs on RockAuto. It seems to be one of the only ones that is 10.5”. I thought after researching for a while that the diaphragm clutches had the different looking throw out bearing with the flat part and tabs/clips that the younger CJ5’s than mine had but the one in the pic here seems to be like my old original one. My existing (Original) clutch fork should work with this new throw-out that comes with the kit, shouldn’t it? It appears in the pic at least to be the same as what I have.

 

No personal experience with these, but Sachs is a good brand. Should work fine. I think the face profile - where it contacts the fingers - is different on the two styles of release bearings, which would not show in that picture. Others that have seen the two clutch types recently may weigh in.

I see a Luk 10.5" diaphragm type on this page 1972 JEEP CJ5 5.0L 304cid V8 Clutch Kit | RockAuto
Says 10 3/8" which I would call the same type as 10.5" - just depends on how the mfrs design/build/describe their products.

 

Like I've stated in other posts. I like the duralast diaphragm clutch but I always try to find a usa made throwout bearing.

I did this exact same thing recently when taking out my 10.5 borg and beck 3 finger clutch and replacing it with a diaphragm clutch. I used a timken usa made bearing . I'll never go back to a borg and beck style unless I buy a dump truck and it needs a new clutch..

 

Thanks guys. Ordered the Luk 01-0126 and it fit perfectly. Throw out bearing was exactly the same design and worked with my fork. DStrt4, looking forward to the noticeable difference in feel you mention with the PP style change.