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Rear Crossmember Removal

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by TigerShark, Apr 27, 2005.

  1. Apr 27, 2005
    TigerShark

    TigerShark Sponsor

    St. Louis, MO
    Joined:
    May 27, 2004
    Messages:
    333
    The rear crossmember on my '69 CJ5 is horrible with two large (3" x 5") holes in it. I have been focusing on bodywork, planning to leave the undercarriage until later. I cut the rear deck out in preparation to put in a replacement. After doing do so, I almost have complete access to the crossmember, so I think this would be an opportune time to replace it.

    I have a few questions about removing it. It looks like it has 8 rivets that hold it to the frame. Is the best way to remove these by grinding them off?

    Also, is the V shaped brace attached to the crossmember or just sitting on top of it?

    Any help would be appreciated.

    Jim
     
  2. Apr 27, 2005
    61CJ5

    61CJ5 Member

    Lafayette, CA
    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2003
    Messages:
    188
    The way I remove those rivets is by grinding the heads off of them, and then using an air chisel with a blunt tip to push the rest of the rivet through the frame. This is by far the best way I've come up with to do it. You might be able to use a punch instead of the chisel, but I'm not sure if that would be able to do it or not.
    Doesn't hurt to try.

    I'm pretty sure that the V shaped brace is welded to the crossmember in some way. The fact that I don't remember cutting it off tells me that it wasn't a big deal at all. I would imagine you could cut the welds with a cut off wheel in a minute or two.

    It's really not that hard to take off, I would recommend taking a few measurements first, such that if the frame rails are under tension and move once the crossmember is gone, you know where to hook up the come-along to get them straight again.
     
  3. Apr 27, 2005
    lynn

    lynn Time machine / Early CJ5 HR Rep Staff Member

    Huntingdon PA
    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2002
    Messages:
    3,437
    Yep, take this advice. I didn't realize this, cut out my rusty rear cross and replaced it with a long piece of 4x4x1/4" square tube. I really like the big tube as a cross/bumper/swingout mount/step combination, but when I attached it (welded it to the frame) I didn't realize the frame rails had moved slightly when the stock cross was removed, and I ended up with about 1" difference in gap between the tub and the cross from one side to the other. I finally fixed it after 9 years when I rebuilt/reinforced the rear frame sections in January.
    So, yes, measure the relationship of the rails before removing the rear cross and K member. :)
     
  4. Apr 27, 2005
    Boyink

    Boyink Super Moderator Staff Member

    Tulsa, OK
    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2002
    Messages:
    6,197
  5. Apr 27, 2005
    TigerShark

    TigerShark Sponsor

    St. Louis, MO
    Joined:
    May 27, 2004
    Messages:
    333
    If I replace the old crossmember with a new one, will bolting it back up with the holes in the new one force the frame back into realignment? Or will it just sit crooked?

    Would placing a rachet strap (or two) tightened down around the frame rails help in keeping the frame in place?

    Frame movement it one factor I hadn't considered.

    Jim
     
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