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tow bar dimension help

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by Dabblin, Mar 23, 2005.

  1. Mar 23, 2005
    Dabblin

    Dabblin Barn fresh 67 cj5

    Joined:
    Jan 2, 2005
    Messages:
    63
    I cant find a tow bar like the one I had my DJ5 25 years ago. It was probably a smittybilt, I bought it from Edgewood National, they no longer exist. It was a short bar that barely extended above the hood when pointing straight up. I am going to make my own but, need the dimensions. Width arm to arm (side to side) and height from tip of coupler to center of horizontal bolt line. The old one used flat iron 2in by half inch with one bend at where it left the coupler and on more straight down to the bolt flanges. I believe they were just outside the frame to bumper attach points.
    Thanks for the help.
     
  2. Mar 23, 2005
    Boyink

    Boyink Super Moderator Staff Member

    Tulsa, OK
    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2002
    Messages:
    6,197
    I'd attach right in front of the frame rails, and go as long as you can stand length-wise - mine's just short of 4' long. Personally I believe many of the issues folks have with flat towing is from using shorter tow bars.

    I can't back that up with data...but it's a variable that seems reasonable to assume would affect how the Jeep tows.
     
  3. Mar 24, 2005
    Dabblin

    Dabblin Barn fresh 67 cj5

    Joined:
    Jan 2, 2005
    Messages:
    63
    The set up I had worked well. I Towed from Vancouver Canada to Seattle on I5 at 65 MPH and had no problems. I was towing with a cornbinder 1/2 ton. I never used it much but It was late at night, the Uncle bens had kicked in, I locked the brakes up going through an intersection, the back end hit some white crosswalk stripes and the old pizza wagon did a slow roll. Ended upside down, resting on the rollbar and the towbar. My "friends" rolled it upright, I should have said helpful but stupid friends, rolled it over, yep you guessed it they continued the original roll, getting the un roadrashed side. Sad thing was that if it were righted back over the damaged side, the 90 degree elbow fuel fitting would not have been damaged by the frame and I could have limped home without the need to tow. ( it had a 283 V8).
    My current project is a 1967 CJ5. 134F. It is in what used to be the inlaws garage.
    Past tense due to sale of house. Said garage is 30 miles from current home. "Little cutie" is barn fresh. Each american racing white and rust spoked wheel is proudly held on by at least 3 chrome lug nuts. One fender 1970 ish fiberglass, other needs help.
    back to the tow bar. If I just could get the dimensions of the width of the frame: outside of frame rail to outside of frame rail. And the distance from the top of the bumper to the Hood top, I can get my local shop to heat and bend some steel so I can drag her back home.
    I thought that the old one was 3/8 bar but when I looked at it, I tghought that given any kind of bend the length of the bar and the accutness of the 2 bends needed might tend to give too much flex, both latererally and longitudinally. I opted for 1/2 inch 25 percent more steel and strength, much less likely to develop a harmonic between bar flex and towed vehicle wander and towing vehicle suspension twist.
    So any body have a tape measure? I have a digital and I'll post pics to go with the project, soon as I evict the wasp nests from the carb once I get "Little Cutie" home. Thanks
     
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