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Setting caster angle

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by Southtowns27, Mar 18, 2005.

  1. Mar 18, 2005
    lynn

    lynn Time machine / Early CJ5 HR Rep Staff Member

    Huntingdon PA
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    Sep 20, 2002
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    3,437
    This is correct for a D30.
    As for a 27... I've never had one apart. :rofl:
     
    Andy Weaver likes this.
  2. Mar 18, 2005
    gte636p

    gte636p Member

    smyrna, Ga
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    Sep 23, 2002
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    say you've got zero caster (you're hands are straight up and down) then someone comes over and lifts one side of your desk for some unknown reason (while you're keeping your hands square to the desk). your hands are no longer straight up and down in relation to the ground... so your caster has changed.

    where the square interface was the axle tube and perch
    the guy lifting you desk was the shim
    and the floor was the spring

    as long as you didn't change shackles at the same time the ground is still on the same plane as it was to begin with (completely horizontal) so the tilt of the tire changed a little bit.
     
  3. Mar 18, 2005
    Mcruff

    Mcruff Earlycj5 Machinist

    Albertville, AL
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    Sorry, but nope the ball socket on your axle is still what sets your caster. I have had them apart and the ball socket (knuckle) is welded on your axle at the same angle as your outer knuckle sits. Your outer knuckle pivots on the bearings on the ball that is welded on your axle tube, this is still the way your caster is set from the factory, you could machine the caps and hole in your knuckles to any angle you want it won't affect the caster cause if the the caps aren't machined on center and true with each other your simply not gonna reassemble it.
    The same principles apply to the dana 27 as the dana 30.
     
  4. Mar 18, 2005
    Southtowns27

    Southtowns27 Custom Title

    The Backhills of...
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    Feb 4, 2003
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    Well, looks like I caused a bunch of confusion. My Jeep has a shackle reversal on it with pretty tall shackles so it's got a TON of negative caster. Wayyyyyy too much. It steers nice and straight, but it eats the sides of the tires off when I turn. I suppose I could just start shimming it back and do it by trial and error.

    Oh, maybe to clear up some confusion - The shims being talked about here are actually little wedge shaped blocks that bolt in between the leaf spring and the axle perch. The wedge shape is what rotates the entire axle assembly thus setting the caster.
     
  5. Mar 18, 2005
    mb82

    mb82 I feel great!

    Charlottesville Va
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    Mar 17, 2003
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    sounds to me like either low tire pressure, someone is cornering too fast ( my normal problem) or camber.
     
  6. Mar 18, 2005
    blevisay

    blevisay Oh Noooooooooooooooo! Staff Member

    Portland Tn.
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    25 here :p
     
  7. Mar 18, 2005
    Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    Los Alamos, NM
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    Ahhh! There are two pivot points on the knuckle. An upper, and a lower. (does not matter what axle). The upper pivot (be it a ball joint, king pin bearing, whatever) will be behind the lower pivot in a positive caster situation, making the knuckle want to "lay down" in a straight forward steering position, making the steering want to stay centered, and make the vehicle track straight down the road by itself......
    Look at a "caster" on your office chair. The axle for the wheel is offset from the upright pin holding the unit into the chair. As you push the chair one way or the other across the floor, the whole caster changes directions, as it tries to "lay down" one way or the other. Clear? Billy, are you jest messing with me?
     
  8. Mar 19, 2005
    Southtowns27

    Southtowns27 Custom Title

    The Backhills of...
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    None of the above...Well cornering too fast sometimes maybe, but my tire press is good and the camber is not adjustable.

    I KNOW my caster is off since my front pinion points at the ground, not at the T-case. You want to see some funky angles...

    THE CASTER IS ADJUSTABLE ON ANY STRAIGHT SOLID FRONT AXLE (Dana 25, 27, 30, 44, 60 etc etc etc)
    This is accomplished by putting a wedge shaped block between the spring perch on the axle and the spring itself.

    Now, Does anybody know how to actually measure the angle??? Do I just measure the angle through the kingpin centers relative to verticle?
     
  9. Mar 19, 2005
    67cj5

    67cj5 Member

    Oregon
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    347
    They make a tool for angles at most tool shops. It is an angle meter. I have one I use for installing angle on spring perched for spring overs and such.Maybe use it and a strait edge
     
  10. Mar 19, 2005
    barry

    barry Inquisitive Member

    Earp, CA
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    Sep 23, 2002
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    Have the front end aligned and they will tell you your caster and camber settings. Get STEEL shims to install based on their readings and you should be alright. This same thread is on the intermediate forum, because I have the same problems on my '78. Look at page 3. Good info there, too. :D
     
  11. Mar 19, 2005
    Mcruff

    Mcruff Earlycj5 Machinist

    Albertville, AL
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    Makes no difference Billy, for practical purpose they are the same axle.
     
  12. Mar 22, 2005
    schardein

    schardein Low Range Therapy

    Success, MO
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    553
    The caster angle is built into the front axle when it is assembled....

    It can be changed by cutting the welds, realigning the outer knuckle, or ball on D25/27, and rewelding... this is really the right way as driveshaft angle to the tcase is inaffected, assuming it is right....

    You can also install the shims, this generally makes the caster better but the driveshaft angle worse....

    Longer shackles with front shackles will reduce caster but reduce driveshaft angle, ie point it more straight at the tcase.

    Longer rear shackles would increase caster, and point the driveshaft down away from tcase...

    Seems I have read somewhere about offset bushings available for ball joint style front ends that allow for some caster adjustment... I guess a guy could machine new offset kingping bearing races, they might have to have a bigger outside diameter, and machine the holes in the ball to fit them, seems like a lot of work, just cut the ball loose and reweld. I say just like it would be easy....not

    I have also heard of tapered shims that go behind the spindle to adjust camber, seems like it would put the axle shaft ujoint in a bind....
     
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