Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by TIm E, Mar 6, 2017.
stainless hospital sink....looking for one after seeing yours.
Nice work on the jeep.
Working on my steering box rebuild...and yes you can find the special sector shaft for the V6 applications, but it is nearly $300 (compared to around $70 for the other CJ5 applications). For $70, I would likely just buy one, but for $300, this seems like a reasonable option...
The wear on the sector studs is fairly limited to a small area, so I marked the wear on the sector plate (black Sharpie marks)...
Ground the heads off the back of the sector studs and pressed them out. Tried drilling as you can see on the one still in there, but grinding worked better. You can see how limited the wear area is and how untouched the rest of the sector stud surface is.
Oriented the pins back in (actually swapped the pins) so that I had the maximum amount of untouched surface where it would be making contact with the worm gear (according to my marks on the sector plate). The old wear areas will not even come close to touching the worm gear. They press in very snug, but I will TIG weld the back for insurance against drifting out or rotating. I did find a John Deere part number online for the sector studs along with the specs/dimensions and it looks to be a dead ringer, but haven't tried it as I couldn't see what it buys me over this. If yours are severely worn, it might be worth a shot...part number is JDS1184, Sector Stud and they run about $23 each.
Here is a little better "after" pic. The contact/wear will now occur where the sharpie marks are...
great work, and good find on the John Deer studs!
Not sure if I mentioned previously, but the engine is at the machine shop...this is an update from the body guy. He had it all stripped to bare metal. There are a few other minor spots in the usual places, but the main rust areas were the corner behind/under the fuel tank and the floor under the tool/storage box. I stopped by there on Saturday and he had everything painted in epoxy primer to prevent flash rust...all the rust will be replaced with new metal.
In the meantime, I have rebuilt the front axle and am currently working on the rear. Hope to have some rolling chassis photos to share soon.
Driver side floor where it meets the wheel house...
Floor under the passenger seat/tool box...
Did they soak it to get rid of the rust?
they did an amasing job on the body tub
He had it sandblasted; which typically isn't advised on sheet metal as it actually generates quite a bit of heat and can warp panels. However, the Jeep tub has lots of structure to it and not much in the way of big flat panels, so I guess it is okay. They used a finer sand and some different method according to him. I saw it up close, it looks fine and the texture is not very rough at all...maybe like 220 sandpaper. I had my frame blasted elsewhere and the texture was pretty rough...more like 100 grit sandpaper. No issues there though as I wanted a good surface for the Urethane Rustseal to bite into.
He did not sandblast the hood btw since it is a big flat panel. I wanted everything exposed and all good solid metal, guess we will see how it all turns out.
Progress update from the weekend...
Rear axle housing all cleaned-up, sandblasted and coated in urethane Rust Seal. New PowrLok clutch plates installed, new carrier bearings...just waiting on new pinion bearings to arrive to re-assemble rear axle.
Sandblasted, cleaned, primed and painted seat frames.
Cleaned, primed and painted rear leaf springs.
Should be back to a rolling chassis soon, then on to rebuilding the T14 and D18 so I am ready when the motor is done at the machine shop. Also received the following pictures from the body shop (it is a single stage acrylic enamel)...
That looks great. It's nice having a jeep that is all one color.
Ha...indeed. Now for my next trick: Trying to have one where all the pieces are appropriately connected to one another!
That's the fun of the challenge!!
Wow, paint looks great. Hoping mine comes out half that nice.
Great job! I haven't seen anyone mention it yet, so I will. I don't think those are F-150 brakes. They look to be chevy calipers and backing plates with likely 76/77 Jeep rotors on the Jeep hubs. There was a metric and standard version of those calipers and it will affect brake hose fitment. They are interchangeable on the axle, but not with the hoses. Also, make sure there is room for the caliper to slide. They can move quite a bit when energized, and I've seen them make contact with the knuckle if not enough material is removed. This will lead to "so-so" brakes.
Thanks. Good eye...I came to the same realization the more I got into rebuilding the front axle. I thought I may have to replace some parts, but the rotors, pads, etc. looked to be quite new and no signs of wear at all. The one difference I noticed on the backing plates is that they are the full circle and very heavy duty compared to some of the other Chevy ones I have seen where they just kind of have the "arms" to support the calipers. Likely a certain year or heavier duty application. I ended up cleaning and painting everything up. Again, likely a recent conversion, but one other likely contributor to the lack of wear was the master cylinder being full of gunk. I have reviewed the disk brake sticky carefully, procured a new master cylinder, new brake lines and plan to install the Willwood residual pressure valve, so I hope to have significantly better brakes when done.
The pictures of caliper clearance are a little deceiving due to camera angle, there is actually about 1/8" clearance or more between caliper and knuckle, but I will keep a close eye on it.
Thanks again. I will edit my original post to prevent misleading anyone on the Ford calipers.
Very nice Tim E.
Another here that's jealous of your workshop.
Most of the 1/2 ton chevy's used the lighter duty backing plates/caliper mounts that I've found. I have a 3/4 ton Dana 44 sitting in the backyard from a chevy right now that has the full circle plates like yours. So likely just a heavier duty application thing. Two schools of thought on those... They will either keep more crud out of the brakes........ Or hold more crud in. lol
Interesting. Did John Deere use the Ross box?
I am not too familiar with John Deere tractors, but found some pictures on Google for one of the models the sector studs fit and the steering box side cover sure looks familiar...as does the worm and bearing set-up. Here are the specs for the tapered sector studs (JDS1184)...
1" overall length
0.405" shaft diameter
0.590" diameter stop ring
0.307" height of taper
Taper = 0.385" to 0.475"
As mentioned, I went with rotating my sector studs 90 degrees and have it all put back together, but I would be interested to try this if anyone had a sector shaft to loan out for a write-up. You'd get it back with new pins
I did some surfing and they (tractor buffs) do say it is a Ross box.
I will look to see if I have another sector shaft.
Figured it was time for an update since I have reached a bit of a turning point in the rebuild...
I have been working on the project fairly steady over the last few months, but it has mostly been rebuilding component assemblies that you guys have seen or done 100 times. Disassemble, scrape, scrub, de-grease, inspect, blast, paint, re-assemble...wash, rinse, repeat.
Anyway, most of the major components are rebuilt and ready, so I have started the overall re-assembly. This weekend was a milestone in getting things back to a rolling chassis. Should start looking less like a garage sale and more like a Jeep again soon...
looks awesome, cant wait for more!
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