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New Guy, New To Me 1974 Jeep Cj5 Frame Crack Questions.

Discussion in 'Intermediate CJ-5/6/7/8' started by carolinatlc, Oct 30, 2016.

  1. carolinatlc

    carolinatlc New Member

    I just bought this 74 CJ5 as a fun weekend project for my 13 year old son and I to work on. I actually have a 69 CJ5 I've been holding onto for years that needs restoring but that will be a future project when I get my detached garage/shop built.

    First thing we are doing is replacing the worn suspension with a 2.5" BDS kit. It should be here next week and we'll hopefully get it on next weekend or the following. In preparation this weekend I was looking over everything and making sure I had everything ordered. Looks like the kit doesn't have new hardware for attaching shackles and springs. What size bolt should I get? I would like to replace everything at the same time with grade 8 hardware.

    Next big question is how to repair the frame cracks I found. Pictures attached. These are the only ones I could find and I think are caused by the current shackle connecting with the current home built bumper. They are on the front passengers side. Any guidance would be great. I don't currently have a welder but have a Miller lunch box stick at work and could also have a guy at work do some tig work for me.
    IMG_3289.JPG IMG_0836.JPG IMG_0837.JPG
     
    Last edited: Oct 30, 2016
  2. nwedgar

    nwedgar Now with TBI!

    If you can, grind out the weld a bit, kind of a "v" shape into the crack, then weld it up with some deep penetration. On some smaller cracks it is possible to drill a small hole at the end of the crack to keep it from propagating, but that is only a temporary fix.

    Looks like a really nice starter for a Jeep project.
     
  3. timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Regarding the spring hardware, the parts book says 7/16"-14 by 3.25". I'd get them from McMaster-Carr, grade 8. Pinch nuts too. McMaster-Carr If you buy new shackles, they often come with hardware.

    I would be sure to pick someone to do the frame repair that is both a good welder and has repaired frames before. Cracks at that location on the driver's side are fairly common, but not so much on the passenger side.
     
  4. tarry99

    tarry99 Member

    V out the cracks as mentioned above and weld them up............the V portion depth only needs to be about half the thickness of the frame material since it's thickness is only about .120 wall and in width about a 1/4".........someone that can handle welding thin material should be asked to perform that surgery...........make sure the metal both top and bottom surrounding the weld zone is ground clean of any paint and wiped clean with acetone of any oil contaminants.

    Might want to also replace those longer than stock length shackles in the front once you get the BDS kit............that extra leverage in side load that they create was more than likely what caused the frame cracks near the hangers.
     
  5. carolinatlc

    carolinatlc New Member

    Great advice guys, keep it coming if you have any. I ordered factory length shackles at the same time as I ordered the BDS kit. The counter guy wasn't sure if it came with hardware or not. Thanks
     
  6. 3b a runnin

    3b a runnin Active Member 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    good lookin Jeep
     
  7. timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    I agree about replacing the long shackles... but I'm skeptical that the cracks come from the leverage of the longer shackles. IME cracks like this are most often due to Rat Patrol action (sp. getting some air and coming down hard). That wide front cross-member helps stabilize the front of the frame, but makes a significant stress riser where it meets the frame. NB the crack originates where the weld ends. Again, IME, cracks more often happen on the driver's side, which should see more stress because of the steering bracket.

    I agree, it's a good looking Jeep. The slots are different front and rear, so make sure that the tire-wheel combo gives you the same diameter front and rear before you use 4WD much. Also note that you have a '76-up windshield... not a problem - many Jeeps have been converted to the later windshield - but it matters re which top you can use.
     
    Last edited: Nov 1, 2016
  8. carolinatlc

    carolinatlc New Member

    Thanks for the info. I would not have noticed the windshield but one of the bolt holes doesn't line up on the side bracket and is missing the bolt. I asked before buying and the guy said he replaced windshield with a 76. Not sure what to do about that. I'll probably want to replace the top at some point so what would be your direction? Haven't even looked into what the differences are.

    When you mention slots being different, what is that in reference to? Tires are matching BFG mud terrain 32x11.50's now with not much tread. Probably replace sometime but not sure with what, maybe 33x10.50's.
     
  9. timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Slots = mag wheels, front and rear. They are clearly different widths, which will give you a different diameter even if the tires are the same.

    The windshield is fine. The '76-up windshield tilts back more and is narrower across the top. The later windshield is a common conversion, since the 1974-period windshields are more scarce than the later windshields. The main difference is which top will fit - the later windshield requires a top for the later Jeeps. The body is basically the same before and after 1976. So if you buy a new top, get one to fit your 1976-up windshield, not the 1974 Jeep body.
     
  10. carolinatlc

    carolinatlc New Member

    Thanks! Oddly enough I hadn't even paid attention to the wheel width. Honestly didnt even notice they were different. I see how that could affect the diameter. Will be on the lookout for a set of wheels also.
     
  11. DrDanteIII

    DrDanteIII Master Procrastinator

    My frame cracker in the same place around the front spring brackets. Probably from being a plow vehicle. I repaired as stated above, drilled a hole at the end of The crack, ground clean, and welded it up. Its held for years since.