Motor Mount Issues

Hi, All: I created a nasty problem trying to install a new motor mount on the drivers side of my '66 CJ5. I need some advice. First let me say that some months ago, I installed the passenger's side mount, working by myself. In spite of a post or two stating that this is a relatively quick job, I found it long and tedious (probably 3 hours -- placing floor jack with board under oil pan, skewed toward to passenger side; removing rusted bolts; carefully jacking up the engine; freaking out about how much I had to keep jacking-up to clear the mount stud; and then all the follow up work). I believed I was successful.

Now, this week was for changing the driver's side mount . I dedicated a few evenings to draining the radiator to remove the bottom hose that blocks access to the mount, and to loosening rusted on bolts. Last nite was to be the jacking up the engine and installation of new mount. Getting underway, to a point where only a 1/4 inch of clearance was needed to remove the old (which I found to be split rubber, two pieces), the jacking was getting very hard. I loosened the nut on the new opposite-side mount, thinking that would help. It probably did help a little, but shortly thereafter, with continued jacking to clear the stud on driver's die: Boom!....the opposite passenger side (new) mount sheared..... and I was left with a slightly rotated engine, no viable motor mounts, and an engine resting on a Northern Tool floor jack pressing into a 2x4 across the oil pan, the jack probably extended to its fullest.

Naturally, I freaked, but didn't have a stroke.... and my adult son kept his cool and helped me calm down. We eventually pieced the two broken mounts together and lowered the jack and the engine onto them. Stable, for now. (Also, I concluded that I likely sheared the driver's side mount when I put in the passenger side mount some months ago....too much stress torqing the engine with jacking up)

So..... my question: To do mount replacements properly, do you put the jack at center oil pan, raise the engine (unattached to both mounts, good or bad), clear the mount studs, and then quickly exchange both sides at the same time? This is what we plan for next week if this is good procedure. Also, really important to me is to know if the engine can withstand the upward flex of about 1 to 1-1/4" off the motor mounts (when jacking it up) to clear the studs of the old and new mounts? Can I feel confident that I will not create damage at the connection between engine and transmission or anywhere else around the engine??

I await your suggestions and advice for changing motor mounts. Even though it is a seemingly easy job, it has become a nightmare to me. Thank you, Ronnie

 

I am guess it's a 4 cylinder engine . because of the stud in motor mounts . if it was me I would change both mounts at same time . is exhaust pipe causing you to have problems . and transfer case weight then's to cock engine to right when lifted . so might need a bottle jack there too

 

Yes, a 134 F head. Good point about exhaust. The manifold pipe extends to under seat where it sleeves over the exhaust pipe, no clamp. Maybe I should remove at manifold before lifting engine. I'm not sure how transfer case plays into this. Will think about that. Thanks.

 

I wrapped two large tie downs around each side of the chassis rails and went under the engine. One near the front and one in the rear. I cinched them up tight after I lifted the motor past the mounts. They secured it snugly. It gave lots of support to the jack I had and I could weave it off of the exhaust. unhooking the exhaust manifold is a good idea. Hope that helps.

 

I did mine recently. Removed the right side fan shroud screws so you can swing it back for fan clearance. Removed nuts, 2x4 under the pan and jacked it up. Right side came out and replaced easier. Tightened it down. Jacked up left side. Had to do a lot of prybar work but it finally went in. New mounts had longer studs I believe.

 

I would recommend not removing the exhaust maniflod from the head, unless you have had it off very recently. You are very likely to snap one or more of the studs off in the head trying to remove them. Consider taking the down pipe off the bottom of the manifold instead to give a little more wiggle room.
-Donny

 

What Donny said, plus take the shroud screws out so the fan doesn't hit it, let it rest on the fan belts, take the four bolts out of the frame, and the two nuts of the studs.
Put a 2X4 across the oil pan at the front and slowly lift the motor, you should be able to get the motor high enough to tip the old ones out and slip the new ones in. You may need to have someone tip the motor one way then the other to put the new mounts in. Once they are in put the nuts on the studs lose, ease the motor down until you can put the bolts in the frame, start the nuts on them, let the motor down all the way and tighten everything up, put the shroud and exhaust on and you are done.
Good luck, this should work for, it did for me.

 

Thanks everyone for your great suggestions. As soon as I get my mount delivery from Walcks next week, I can get busy once again on this project

 

I just took the large nuts off both motor mounts and jacked the whole motor straight up just enough to slip the mounts out and the new one back in then slowly lower it until the small mount mounting bolts line up.

I'm pretty sure I had both replaced in just more than 30 minutes

 

IF possible, I"d use a cherry picker instead of the floor jack. Makes it much easier and allows you to balance the load.