Body Sheet Metal Gauge

I am in the process of restoring my late model 1965 CJ5. I replaced the origional blown 225 V6 with a 67 V6 and after much tweaking finally have it running and stopping as it should, now onto the body. I purchased a TIG welder from a good frlend and have done much practicing on 16ga sheet metal, not a pro but can do a good job. I want all the parts origional and the body is in really good shape for a 50 year old vehicle. I plan on cutting out the rust spots and weld in new sheet metal on most of the body; and replace the front floor pan with a complete one I had recently purchased from a member on this site. What I need to know is. What is the origional gauge sheet metal for the fill patches? Also if anyone has any tips and tricks for the best and easiest proceedure possible, it will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance to all responses.

 

Well howdy. I believe the original sheet metal was something like 17 gauge. I went out to repair the rear cross member on my 3B and three months later it was like a new Jeep. Read up on things like using a copper piece to back a weld.

 

Get cold rolled sheet metal if you can. A little harder to work with, but finishes great.

 

I'm not a body-man by any description. But I think flanging tools are the bee's knees.
Made my own from a pair of vise grips, or you can buy various types.

Amazon.com: Eastwood Panel Flanger - Flanging Tool for Body Work: Automotive

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-40410B..._UL160_SR160,160_&refRID=9RQ0YHNDWQB6GWKFS81R

Amazon.com: SG Tool Aid 91625 Pneumatic Panel Crimper Air Chisel: Automotive

 

The replacement sheet steel should be 18 or 19 gauge cold rolled steel.


Dave

 

Yes the original body was thin stuff!

 

I was out there welding and a friend wanted me to weld on his Bronco. I think I did my Jeep with 16 gauge. It still looks fine with the Rustoleum paint job. Only been about three years so far.
I bought some drops from the local metal shop to do it.

 

16 is way too thick. Dependi

This.

 

16 will work but 1) it's heavy 2) it's more expensive and 3) it's much harder to work with. I have not bought sheet steel but the salvaged material I have used is about 20 ga and it's fine. IMO you are just making your life harder by using thicker steel. Seems like 16 is widely available because it's thick enough to be used for brackets and such, but it's way heavier than body steel. Local HVAC shop made some pieces for me in 16 ga, because that's what they had other than 22 galvi. A pain to work with - BTDT.

Also, I remember a post on another forum where they measured some old cars and trucks, and the magic number was 19. New cars have gotten thinner ... I would think you could buy 20 and you'd never know the difference, by structure, appearance or durability.

 

I agree with Pete. The flangers are great. I use a pneumatic one.
Air Punch/Flange Tool

Get a copper welder's spoon for backing. I use 18 or 20 ga mostly because I got a bunch for free. Works well.

 

Almost everything on a Jeep is a flat piece of metal and bending the rear corner piece to fix where the spare tire was is fun. Tail light panels were interesting to replace too. Butt load of spot welds to get to.