Dauntless 225 Help

I worked on the carb last night and again this afternoon, setting the float level, adjusting the needles and the accelerator pump (to recommended levels from Holley. I pulled the fuel line and checked the fuel volume from the pump and it seemed sufficient. Still can't get it to run for any length of time and it will only start and run for a short time with choke engaged fully. Also checked timing when it was running and when it was idling "well", for the few seconds it would, was around 9° but was wandering up off the scale. The resistor was hot to the touch, leading me to think that it's somewhere in the ignition. I ordered a couple new resistors since they're relatively cheap, and looking forward to getting them and seeing if they happen to help. I looked at the current/old one and it looks a bit corroded. Any other guesses?

This is my first rebuild so never messed with points, condensors, resistors, etc. All the help and advice is appreciated.

 

If the timing is "wandering", and you don't have the vacuum advance line connected, I'd be popping the cap off the distributor, and having a look at the mechanical advance weight and springs, and possibly even the distributor bearings, and possibly the distributor drive and driven gears, there's something wrong there, the timing shouldn't "wander", especially not at idle.

 

Put some gasoline in a pump spray bottle( like a windex or 409 bottle). Start the engine. When it starts coughing or choking start spraying gasoline in the carb. If it is a fuel problem the engine will immediately perk up. That engine probably has a dual plane manifold on it which means you could get different results by spraying into the different barrels of the carb. My fireball ran on 3cyl on one bank because of carbureter blockage until I found the blockage

 

Disconnect your vacumn advance line and plug it before you check your timing. My fireball timing wanders probably 3 to 5 degrees while idling. If your fuel filter isn't new it could let less than adequate fuel through for a short period and then clog. After sitting a few minutes it can do the same thing again. Is there more than 1 filter on it? Check and make sure. Does the engine restart immediately?

 

So it was a fuel issue. I pulled the fuel line and did a volume test a few days ago and it seemed to be good. Ran it again today after a new fuel filter (the old one was only a few weeks old but it may still be cleaning some gunk out of the system after sitting dry for a year and a half) and it's running like a champ. Took it for a neighborhood drive tonight and it ran great. Still have to run it for an extended period to see if the problem has been fixed.

 

...but I did fashion a heat shield for the fuel pump while I was at it. I'll post pics tomorrow when it's daylight.

 

I'd suggest checking your timing chain for wear or the distributor for wear if it varies that much. Most likely timing chain but either can be at fault.

 

One of the first things I do on most rigs that have been sitting is to put a plastic fuel filter between the pump and carb. This way you can easily see if you have fuel coming into the carb. I have never been a fan of testing pumps with an open line or filling a bucket as gasoline has a tendency to find any handy sources of ignition and buckets get spilled at the worst times. Most pumps either work or don't. If you see fuel in the filter then you have fuel to the carb. Also handy on test hops as you don't have to remove an air cleaner and work the throttle to find out if you have fuel. Just have to glance at the filter to see if it is a fuel issue.

 

What Daryl said plus if your fuel or tank is full of junk..........you know it right-a-way

 

Yep. I've got one there along with a fuel pressure gauge. Easy to access to see furl flow and to change out when necessary. Thanks guys.

 

Is the tank vented right? Paint over the cap? Seen that happen with a friends 69

On the distributor and not being able to turn enough, what I have done is set it up on TDC ready to fire and see where it is pointed like has been mentioned. THEN, pull it up out and rotate housing where you can get some ovement back and forth, then set the cap down and move the wires a terminal in the direction you need them. Had more troubles with movement with the HEI thanthe regular distributor but it helps. If it ran good and the only thing done is the tank removed and cleaned, somehting there has happened.