No headlights

Folks -- I believe I inadvertently shorted out my headlights while installing a new brake light switch plus a third LED brake light on my '66 CJ5 that I'm restoring. After completing some challenging (for me) wiring, I have everything working (parking, signals, brake lights) except the headlights. When I pull the light switch to headlight position, no dash lights or headlights.... but a relay clicks every 10 seconds or so in rear portion of the light switch.

Is this a matter of buying a new switch, or is a clicking relay a sign of bigger problems?

One other thing to point out: my new LED brake light comes on with left turn signal -- but i'm thinking this is unrelated to my headlight problems because when I disconnect the LED, still no headlights.

Do the headlight switches go bad? Any suggestions for me? I hope

Thank you, ronnie

 

There is an automatic reset circuit braker on the back of the light switch. Most of the electrical system runs through it. If everything else is working but the headlights, between the clicking noise and your description, you have a short somewhere from the switch to the headlights. My first thought would be to remove the wires from the dimmer switch and check it out and of course, check for chaffed wires and so forth.

 

Sounds like a dead short in the headlight circuit, like Monkey says. The switch goes to the dimmer switch then to the headlights. I put Aircraft landing lights in the high beams on my 62 Vett when a kid, and the circuit would go on and off if I had my high beams on too long, the breaker would heat up and the lights would go off and on.

 

It may be a matter of unhooking the wiring you just did. Principal of undoing the last thing done.

 

Thanks for you information, Everyone. I've been reading and studying the wiring diagrams, and it seems that if I run a jumper from the headlight switch's rear circuit breaker terminal , which is always hot (according to diagrams), to the headlight output terminal on the headlight switch, I should gain some insights: if lights come on, switch is bad; still no lights, then check the dimmer switch. I'm doubtful of the foot dimmer switch being bad, however, because I lose all parking lights (front and rear) when pulling headlight switch to position two for headlights. Seems that a bad dimmer should not influence parking light function.

I think, too, that if I put an ohm-meter across the dimmer switch terminals that allow voltage to pass from headlight switch to headlamps, then press the dimmer switch to test for on-and-off continuity should prove if dimmer switch is good or bad. This will be tonite's work for me. -- ronnie

 

Howard ... thank you! I'll do as you recommend. -- ronnie

 

might read some continuity through bulbs. disconnect them also

 

Howard -- I found two leads on my headlight switch terminal for headlights: green and yellow.. Surprised me because wiring diagrams show only one lead. Anyway, terminal to ground readings are: OL for off and #1 positions; 0.9 Mohm in #2 (headlight); green wire to ground, 0.8 ohm; yellow to ground, 0.2 ohm.

Uncertain about how to use this info. Meanwhile, I ordered a new switch. thanks, ronnie

 

Take a look at the back of the dimmer switch. Can be see with the hood up and looking down towards where the pedals come through the floor. Don't remember on the '66 if they were through the floor pedals or swinging from under the dash, but the dimmer switch is still in the same place.

What you want is to see what color the wire is going back up and through the firewall toward the dash. There will be three wires, but only one goes back to the dash.

When you know what color wire you are looking for, then look at the terminals on the dash switch and see where that color goes. Should not be any other wires there.

Oh, almost forgot. Actually should be a wire of smaller gauge connecting the highbeam side of the dimmer to the highbeam indicator in the speedometer. Maybe on the dimmer switch or maybe on the terminal block on the drivers fender that connects the two lights to the connections from the dimmer switch. I would bet on the terminal block.

 

Thanks, Howard and 1960willys: my wiring is stock; I'm the only owner .... bought it in '66 (but it's been dormant for over 20yrs. (Been restoring since June). In early years, I did some DIY wiring for radio, interior and backup lights, hazard flasher, but doubt I ever touched the headlight terminal to add a wire.

I see both green and yellow at the dimmer switch, and will check for continuity. I'll look for the high beam indicator light wire on the speedo cluster. BTW: I think replacing the headlight switch will be a bear. Too little room

-- ronnie

 

Howard and 1960willys...... you were right about switch okay. I now get headlights but no dimmer switch function to high beam (or maybe to low beam; couldn't tell because no indicator light either). But, when I jumpered the second wire to headlight terminal, the jumper line (thin wire alligators) burned up. Smoked me out and I thought I'd lost all... but I'm back to single beam headlights, and believing that second yellow wire is the culprit. It must be for high beams and indicator light, but now shorted.

I'll have to trace it. Meanwhile, I cleaned dimmer switch contacts, and checked for on-off function. Seems okay. But maybe I should buy a replacement.

Does any of this make sense?

Thanks again -- ronnie

 

All is good, guys. I have everything working except high beam indicator light in speedo. Will address that another time.

Turns out that second wire on headlight terminal was in fact my handiwork, likely in the early 1970s. I'd run a line from headlight terminal to light the bulbs in gauges, like the tach, ammeter, etc. I have no recollection of doing that, esp. after 40+ years. It finally shorted, it seems.

Thank you, lifesavers, in this matter.

Finally, I've tried twice to have someone at Earlycj5 contact me about donating. No response. Maybe you can help. I owe this valuable forum.

Thanks, ronnie

 

Not wshing to be smug but this is a fairly simple circuit to figure out. Owning a Jeep will give you a few more chances to learn about the wiring. A friend used to be the last resort for fixing semi trailer wiring. He would hook up a 12V battery and watch for the smoke. Oh, there is your problem.