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Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by jhuey, Feb 15, 2005.

  1. Feb 15, 2005
    jhuey

    jhuey Michigan Jeeper!

    Indian River...
    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2004
    Messages:
    415
    Well today I placed the eng/trans/xfer case assembly into my frame for the first time. No welding yet, I am using the Novak motor mounts, and everything is clamped in place (upper bracket bolted to the eng). I just want to bounce what's going on off you all to see if it makes sense. My original CJ5 was a '64 with a 134/T-90/T-18. I bought a '67 chassis with 225/T86/T-18. I am putting the running gear from the '67 into my '64. Now as it sits I had to shift the assembly to the passenger side 3/4 inch so the center line of engine is 1 1/4 inches to the drivers side. To accomplish this I re-drilled the trans/xfer cross-member. Now the clutch bell-crank from the '67 fits nicely. I was a little concerned on the shift because I was putting a Jeep power-train into a Jeep, I thought it should just be a straight bolt up. I have the engine at a 5 degree down in the back, although it is at the top of the range Novak recommends (3 to 5 Degrees) it was necessary to bring the motor mounts up high enough so the lower bracket can be welded in a position that makes them sturdy. Any less of an angle the top of the lower bracket will be about at the lower part of the frame, so if left like that I will only be welding half of the area the Novak bracket has. I am comfortable with where I am now, although I would of liked the bracket higher. Has any one use the Novak mounts? If so how did it go? I know I am rambling but using you folks as a sounding board might save me from making a mistake! Can't wait till It's done!
     
  2. Feb 15, 2005
    jpflat2a

    jpflat2a what's that noise?

    Hermosa, SD
    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2003
    Messages:
    8,525
    Joe it sounds to me your about right.
    if you look at the factory frame mounts in the 67, you would see that the engine is offset to the pass side, I believe, one mount being longer than the other.
    I would suggest eyeballing the front d/shaft and the fan blades, for proper fit/clearance issues; I realize your shaft may need modifying; U-joint sizes?
    Other than eyeballing the trans/t/case shifter openings in the floor, you should be good to go IMO
    radiator issues? changing lower outlet or swapping radiator also?
    what steering set-up?
    any clearance issues there?
    what exhaust set-up? stock manifolds? headers?
    if headers, you may want to bolt them up as well.
    all I can think of for now
     
  3. Feb 15, 2005
    jhuey

    jhuey Michigan Jeeper!

    Indian River...
    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2004
    Messages:
    415
    Thanks, I have a pile of drive shafts and someone who can modify them when the time comes. The Jeep is completely apart right now, I will fit the tub on to have a look see on major interference's. Radiator has been modified, 3 core with lower outlet moved already. My steering is a saginaw conversion (Herm the Overdrive Guy). It looks like plenty of clearance, I'll test fit the steering when tub is on, I'm using steering wheel and shafts from a postal Jeep. I have headers and they fit fine, plenty of clearance, a little close on the last bolt drivers side and steering shaft but I will know more with tub in place. This whole process is cool! Expensive but cool.
     
  4. Feb 15, 2005
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Falcon, CO
    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2003
    Messages:
    5,472
    Used Novak mounts for years - sounds like you have your hands on it. Others have mentioned things, but here is my list ('course I usually put them in Flatties).

    - Front Drive shaft, with shock movement
    - I use PVC pipe to mock steering and exhaust

    Lookin a the list you shouldn't have to worry about hood and Firewall clearance like I do...
     
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