Motorcraft 2100 Carb

Anyone have this carb on their 258???

How does it run?

Any tips on installing this carb would be appreciated.

Thanks
Paul G.

 

http://www.cjoffroad.com/writeup.asp?WU_ID=16&noAdd=1

I'll be installing mine in the very near future. Can't hardly wait!

 

Yes.

Fine. Better than the BBD.

Maybe some pics and discussion tomorrow.

 

Ok, 2100 on a 258. The pics first:





You'll have to excuse my cheesy return spring - it works fine.

This is a 1977 J-10 truck with a factory 258 and T15, 49 states only for '77. The original carburetor was a non-computer controlled Carter BBD 2V on a factory 2V manifold. The original manifold was cast iron and was held to the exhaust manifold with four bolts. The original manifolds were replaced with a set from a 1985 CJ-5. They have some differences from the originals; there's no choke stove, the intake manifold is aluminum, and the exhaust manifold is much lighter and smoother - more like a cast header.

The carburetor is from a California '76 Jeep Cherokee with a 360 engine. I cleaned it and rebuilt it with a kit I got from Napa. It sits on top of a 3/8" thick hard plastic insulator that I got from a junkyard somewhere, and the MRG-1937 2V-2V adapter from Mr. Gasket (Summit Racing). All the original emissions devices were kept, although I had to solder a PCV inlet into the air cleaner.

Most everything bolts together except for the bracket I made for the throttle arm on the carburetor. The original throttle linkage pulls down on the BBD, and the 2100 linkage pulls back. The bracket rotates the ball stud for the linkage around from 11 o'clock around to about 2 o'clock on the throttle pivot. I used the existing holes in the throttle arm bracket to secure the plate to the bracket. I made a new rod of the proper length from some all-thread and ball sockets (also from Summit). The BBD rod is not adjustable and hardened, so making a new rod is easiest.

My main complaint is about the adapter - what a piece of junk! Very cheap - doesn't fit well, and the hardware is clumsy. If I had the resources, I'd make an adapter from a plate of aluminum - straightforward, as machining projects go.

I'm using a HELP/Dorman manual choke kit, which works but is pretty shoddy. Ideally I'd want an electric choke, but no need for that much refinement yet.


hth Tim

 

I put a 2100 on my '77 258. Made a world of difference in drivability. I'm still planning on Howell FI this spring, though.