More SOA Questions

Ok - I've decided I need to do something with the suspension on my '74. The PO has some hacked up body lift on it and I managed to bend a shackle slightly. I've searched and haven't really found what I'm looking for...

I'm debating on what to do. Its either go SOA and run these really cool shackles: http://www.4wd.com/shop/productdetail.asp?productsku=7253
or put a traditional lift on it. What problems will I need to address? I've seen some people that just flip the springs and are done and others that have all kinds of issues. What all does a SOA take to make it work?

I'm not too worried about wheel hop or ride quality as this is just a weekend toy but I do drive it to wherever I'm about to tear it up at

 

Either you saw Extreme 4X4 this weekend or you have great timing. They just did a build up on a 82 CJ 7 with this exact lift. It really improved wheel travel and they did the SO on like 50 buck budget. I'm wondering how this would work on the road. I've heard that SO lifts wander and I sure don't want to wander any more than I already am
It looked pretty cool and not too difficult, but you know it's more involved than they make it on TV.
High5

 

If you go with the spring over you will need high steer or a big drop pitman arm. You will have much more body roll a sway bar might be required.

 

Yea - I did see that show I had been thinking SOA and then I saw those shackles and now I've convinced myself that I need them. They're kinda pricey at $200 a pair. I'm trying to figure out how they're made and see if I can't make them myself. The only issue is how the stop is built. I know it has to have them but I'm not sure how...

I'm basically trying to get the most articulation with the least amount of $$$. I'm thinking the SOA would give me this if there weren't a bunch of issue's in doing so. Would my driveshafts need to be modified?

 

Going SOA doesn't seem like its going to give you that great an increase in articulation. Going SOA does allow you to use different more flexible springs. I went SOA for the clearance and to run some wrangler springs that flex better than my rancho 2.5s did. I also went and did a shackle reversal and added more caster so it drives straight down the highway. I made my own highsteer setup so it has little to no bumpsteer. It doesn't wander and feels solid at 65 while almost maxing out 9012 ranchos.

SOA is great when engineered right, but I've seen SUAs that work just as well. If your dead set on it I would find someone local that has a good solid SOA setup and copy it. Otherwise I would start looking at spring over kits.

Why do you need those funky shackles? Just use regular shackles and save the $200.

 

I did SOA on my 69 CJ5. No shackle reversal. I love the ride quality compared to what it was. I used 5 leaf YJ springs front and rear and RS 9000 shocks. They need another leaf added in though as they are slightly negative arched in the rear. I also swapped in a narrow trac D30 which of course you already have. It is very stable at 80 MPH. I am running 34 x 10.50-15 Super Swamper LTB's. The only time it gets a little squirly, is if I have to do a panic stop at freeway speeds.
I did a hi steer setup with heim joints instead of tie rods. All in all it was a pretty pricey way to go, but I am happy with it.
I would highly recommend installing sway bars if you do a lot of hwy driving. I have them front and rear.
Compared to stock I have quite a bit more articulation, if for no other reason, than the fact I have more tire to fender clearance.

 

So are y'all saying that I would definately have to modify my steering system? What else would need to be done? Would I need to change my driveshafts or anything like that?

 

Nice paint there Johny, almost looks too clean to wheel!

Yep, driveshafts will most likely have to be modified. Your rear shaft will hate you, probably want to go to a cv rear. The front might work ok. Longer brake lines will be needed either way. Longer shocks and most likely different mounts for them will also be needed. New u-bolts would be nice.

I think thats it really.

Kevo

 

I shortend my rear shaft, but mainly because I put in a different trans which was a longer setup than i had. You'll need perches to weld on, shackles, longer shocks, longer front driveshaft, maybe just a dropped pitman, but I opted for hi steer with heim joints. It's all fun. I rebuilt mine from the ground up in 8 months, complete with bodywork and paint.

Oh and ebay will be your best friend. Not only for buying parts, but also for selling off your old stuff

 

Thanks for all the input guys. I'm not sure what I want to do now. I was thinking it would be cheaper to go spring over but with all the modifcations and driveline issuses I'm thinking I might be better off buying a spring under kit and building from there. I don't mind working or fabricating stuff but I'm on a budget and I think the driveshaft mods would be more than I need to spend

 

I did my own driveshafts. I bought a longer one off of ebay for like $10 and cut and shortened it myself, and then the rear one I shortened myself.

 

I Just Did A Soa On My 76 And Used 2.5 Rancho Springs, My Biggest Issue Has Been Mounting Shocks So It Doesnt Limit My Travel Also I Have Some Axle Wrap But If Your Using A Stock Spring You Will Have Axle Wrap Problems. A Trac Bar Will Be Necessary. Also I Used A Four Inch Lift Drop Pitman Arm And It Clears Under The Spring No Problem.

 

I have a buddy who has those revolver shakles, they can be deadly onroad! If you make a sudden turn they can open up with no warning giving you crazy body roll! also you will need VERY long shocks. If you are going to drive your jeep on the road I would stay away from those.

 

I never thought about that. That doesn't sound like fun at all I guess I'll stay away from those...