Trying to identify a noise...

I guess no possibility of any engine to bell housing bolts back out due to aluminum threads then. Just wondering if someone could have been afraid to tighten some bolts because of the aluminum.

 

Found some time to dig in a little further - ended up having to remove the transmission hump cover to inspect the top mounting bolts. Turns out two bolts on the driver side had fallen out - one was wedged between the top of the bellhousing and underside of the hump cover (can see the shavings where it was rubbing on the sheet metal) and the other is gone. Top bolt on the right was not finger loose, but not even close to torque spec. It also appears that some of the other bolts do not have lock washers - so to the hardware store tomorrow and see if I can get the pieces. Need to check FSM for bolts and torque specs. Any suggestions on the style of lock washer?



cheers...

 

Best I can tell all of the bolts thread into the block, correct? My preference is split ring lock washers. I personally would go with a flat washer, lock washer, bolt. Also a bottom tap to clean out the threads and blow them out with air. Those threads need to not have any grit, chips, or whatever in there.

Of course the original bolts might have a special grip head that doesn't require a lock washer.

 

A lock washer is somewhat redundant, but I'd rather have the backup than nothing. Without a lock washer a bolt (or nut) is basically either tight or loose. A split ring lock washer can help eliminate that issue with the force it applies.

 

I've always gone with the logic that since a split ring wants to "not" be just flat the outward force (tension) it automatically applies not only keeps the nut or bolt tight but the tension also helps to keep the same from backing out even not quite as tight as necessary. I do know that I don't have stuff come loose when I tighten it with the proper fasteners. Also you could use the theory that lock washers were invented out of necessity and obviously are successful.

 

Split ring lock washer on a faced bolt is what I normally use - Grade 8 hardware. If your concerned, use some med Locktight.

 

Yep, grade 8 all the way.

 

Done no loctite. Tomorrow can put the cover hump back on. Might check anything else I can reach with a wrench such as tramission to adapter plate and adapter to bellhousing etc. The floor hump is enough of a nuisance to remove might as well check brake fluid and maybe flush if I can get some pedal help.

Really hoping this is the extent of the problem. Looking forward to a few more trips with fall colors coming.

 

Update - got the bellhousing fully attached to the block and took for a quick errand. Everything seems to be good - the knocking noise is gone....so now I can hear the other noises that make wonder whats going to break next. Get it out and drive it around for while and see if everything holds.

thanks!

 

Good thing you found it when you did! Glad it's fixed now.