Brake line distribution block (tee) questions

I'm rebuilding the braking system on my '66 CJ-5 (stock; original owner) and have not yet been able to disconnect a single brake line fitting from any connection of a line leading into a like-material (e.g., into a tee block; into a flex hose end). So, I'm tempted to just cut the existing lines at the 4-way block (mounted up front on frame; driver's side), pull out the block, put in a vice, and then try to un-do the cut fittings with vice grips. My concern is that I may never get the old fittings out to re-use the block --and those 4-way blocks are not available anywhere (why doesn't Walck's manufacture them??).

Has anyone here been successful in disconnecting the four lines from the Tee-block and then re-using this rare piece, the block, for new lines. I'm thinking that maybe I should take it to a machine shop that cleans heads, valves, etc, as they can probably remove the old fittings with proper equipment and without damaging the block.

Any suggestions, or comments, or personal experience on this matter?

A footnote: last nite I saw that the 3-way block above the rear axle with a flex hose feeding into it is going to present the same problem: namely, impossible to disconnect lines. But I think that I can find an after market 3-way, so that's not so serious. It's the rare 4-way I'm really concerned about.

Finally, I will add that I have PB-blasted these connections plenty, to no avail (my feeling is that if brake fluid doesn't come out, PB-blaster is not going in to lube the threads). And I have a set of pre-bent lines from Vintage Jeep parts ready to install; they look like they'll fit (even though made in China).

Please share your experiences with similar brake line/fitting/block issues so that I can get an idea of what I'm facing in my brake re-build. -- thank you, ronnie

 

I have successfully removed the steel line ends in the past. Since your lines are getting replaced, cut them close the the brass block. Mount the block in a vice, use some heat from a propane torch, but not hot enough to make thing change color(red). Use a 6point socket over the stuck line end and unscrew like a bolt.
The 6point wrench distributes the torque without crushing the fitting and rounding off the flats. I have needed to run a selftapping screw in the end of the old line to keep it from collapsing and hold its shape.
Good Luck! -Donny

 

As Donny mentions, you should always use a 6-point socket or wrench to remove flare nuts. There is a special tool called a flare nut wrench that has 6 faces and a gap to fit over the brake tubing. If you cant get the nut out with one of these, try putting a piece of pipe over the wrench to give you extra leverage. But don't ever use an open end wrench on a flare nut (tubing nut). These nuts are hollow and the open end wrench will either distort them or round off the corners. If you can cut the tube, the 6-point deep socket works well ... but won't work if the corners are rounded.

Flare nut wrenches -



If the corners are rounded, this type of locking wrench works well -

 

Pretty sure your 3-way block comes as part of the flexible line. The flexible line is not removable from the block.

 

Thanks, folks, for the helpful suggestions and comments. Nice to know that others have removed cut-off flare fittings from blocks. As for the flare wrench: I forgot to mention that I bought one (3/8" and 7/16" ends from Oreillys), but only after I rounded a nut to a complete circle (it remains in place on a connection to a front wheel flex hose). I learned about flare nut wrenches on the forum. As matters are now, my flare nut wrench has not budged any of my other brake line fittings. As I put torque to it, I sense the slight rounding of the hex corners on the flare nut, and stopped each time, not wanting to round another, esp. with the proper wrench.

But I have never seen such an interesting vice grip that presumably can help me get that rounded nut off. Do auto stores have? or Northern Tool, or Harbor Freight?

Finally, I don't think that the flex hose is attached to block. It's got a 5/8" connecting-nut on the end (that won't relinquish to my wrench, of course; I'll buy a 5/8" flare nut wrench and try again) at the 3-way block. Possibly later model cj5s are different; this is 1966 and the replacement flex hose I got in preparation for re-doinig brake lines is a 16" hose (with 'normal' ends). -- ronnie

 

That block is brass so the fittings should spin out without too much of an issue. Like mentioned cut the lines and use a socket or box wrench. I might have a spare block but not sure

 

It's an Irwin "locking wrench."

http://www.amazon.com/Vise-Grip-Adjustable-Locking-Wrench-Cutters/dp/B0076ITU64/ref=pd_sim_469_4