Shifter rust

My 74 shifter is stuck, been sitting outside many years. I suspect rust has claimed its freedom, it moves side to side, but not forward or back into gear.
Suggestions? I venture to guess water has also gotten into the trans...what to look out for? Have not yet drained oil...
also, engine is seized, oil is clear, it ran when [parked 30yrs ago...only 60k on odo.
Tx for help

 

Suggestions?
Pull the top off the trans & see how bad it is.
I would imagine the trans is full of rust...sometimes the gears can be cleaned up and re used, but you're looking at a complete overhaul.
If it's too bad, start searching for a new trans....

 

Thx Doug. I popped top of gearbox off, shifter rods are rusted in neutral, gears are crusty, doesn't look real good in there. Hoping to be able to get the thing into a gear in order to try nudge the engine to turn...this beast is obviously gonna eventually require more work to get operational. Was not intending a complete overhaul of drivetrain yet, was hoping to get it to run for OH ute duty on my 15 acre mountaintop, hauling chainsaws, dragging logs, setting fence, and getting down (and back up) from the bottom land. Thinking I will fill trans with kerosene and flush the crud, and then try unseize the 258, which only has 60k on clock. If not, seems that a 4.0 HO stroker may be in works. Is there a bolt-in trans upgrade available, like a 5 speed? Present gearbox is a 3, with D20 transfercase and 44/30 axles.

 

I doubt flushing with kerosene will help a lot...your gears might be able to be cleaned up, but the bearings are sure to be toast.
AFAIK there's no 5 speed that's short enough to work in a CJ-5...the usual upgrade for these is a T18 4 speed which was a stock option for your year.

 

What's your axle ratio? A '74 will have 3.73 axles standard and 4.27 axles optional. Both of these are fine on the highway. No overdrive needed.

If the transmission is full of water, you'll need to take it apart and overhaul it. If you try to run it like that, it will simply self-destruct.

Doug is correct, none of the 5-speeds will fit. The rear drive shaft is too short for the extra transmission length. I'd suggest you get it running with the factory equipment before you think about upgrades.

 

Tim, that is my hope...have to unseize engine and trans first though. If I get it running stock, it will only be used off highway, on my own rural land as a toolgopher and woodchuck, low speed and short runs. In the meantime, will begin to dig around for a t18 and 4.0 HO for the eventual rebuild. Not my fist luau with a restoration/upgrade/re=engineering project.
I appreciate you and Doug chiming in-any suggestions on the seized 258? Mounting tires as i type, going to try pull it with my F150 and break it free, Jeep in high gear, truck at low speed...

 

Ok, cleaned out gear box and shifter best as I could. Soaking shifter in penetrant atm-but it is obstinate, not budging. Tips on how to break the shifter free of the bonds of rust? I showed it my ugly hammer, but don't want to mess it up. How are the end caps removed? Thinking that judicious blows with straight punch might begin to work the shift slides...thanks!

What can one expect to pay for a T18? BTW the dif tags are rusted, any way to determine ratio from VIN tag? Yeah, I guess can count teeth or revolutions, too...

 

Is it the shift top or the transmission that's frozen? If the shift top, take it apart and clean all the rusty parts with a wire wheel in a bench grinder. Diagram in the FSM. The 3-speed shift tops are simple.

No. Take the cover off and look at the tooth counts stamped into the ring gear. For example 44 9 is 44/9 = 4.88. This is typically also on the tag, if you can read it.

 

Was asking how to disassemble the shifter, specifically the metal caps at ends of shifter rails. After soaking in kerosene several days, was able to free them by carefully directing a hammer blow with brass punch to base of forks. Got them free, filled trans with kerosene and reinstalled top onto trans. It now shifts into all gears.

Now to nudge the engine and get that unseized-ZEP 45 in cylinders for a week. I am missing one front hub, which means I don't yet have full nudge-ability! When I do replace it, will pull it slowly with the f-150 down the street and half a buddy snap clutch.

 

A few years ago I tried to find some of those shift rail caps. the guy at the used Jeep parts place said that they are no longer available so save them if you can. I did manage to find one and I'm hoarding it.

 

Turned out did not need to remove those shift rail caps...
Another question, how simple is the 4 speed conversion, and which year/vehicle is the ideal source?
Im certain the present trans will not last road use service without a rebuild, am hoping it should work on the mountain top off road, as a farm ute hauler. If I can get the engine unseized. However, if the engine will not turn over, will rebuild it a stroker.
Also mounted new pair of new TSL Thornbirds mounted today...and located a needed new fender...

 

Do a search here. many members are doing a 4 speed swap now so read up on it