cylinder head gasket cj5 1968 4cylinder

hallo

my head gasket is leaking on outside the engine .i m "eating" cooling liquid . but the jeep doesn t over heat

i ve already change several cylinder head gaskets but never on this kind of engine ( exhaust valve on the side of the engine) .

is there any important thing to know or to do when i ll do this ????

do i need specific tool ?

do i need particluar things when the engine will be open ????


to lock the cylinder head bolts : what is the method : 2 or 3 passages , angular , etc


any body has the right torque ar angle ?






i ve never present my jeep on your nice forum , because i can t transalte everything (my english ... ) ???? but this is the link on our 4wd french forum :


http://www.forum4x4.org/threads/131318-cj5-remise-en-route-d-une-grand-mere-de-1968





thank you , have a nice day

 

"is there any important thing to know or to do when i ll do this ???? do i need specific tool ?"



To remove the carburetor may require a "crows-foot" wrench, or bending a normal 9/16" wrench, to reach the nut under the carburetor, near to the rocker cover.

There is one head bolt hidden inside the intake passage under the carburetor.

Head bolts hould be torqued (tightened) to 60-70 foot/pounds (=8.3-9.7 kg-m). Start in the center of the head first, then work aound and out towards the ends. It is my belief that with modern gaskets, only one final torquing is needed.

 

Wow and how is France this morning? Top of the day!..............

A couple of things: I would first if you have not already taken the head off , try doing a reverse torque sequence to try and determine if the bolts were stretched or already loose.
Second once the head is off take a long look at the condition of your head & block surface as far a flatness is concerned. The head would be the most obvious for being warped and should be either ground flat or at least checked.........Water will leave stains and or marks on these surfaces showing that the head was perhaps loose on the block or where the gasket failed.........it's a good Idea to do a little detective work during the dis-assembly.
And if the head bolts are etched or corroded along the shaft from rust , replace them.

 

The bolts MUST be sealed with a sealant as they screw into the water jacket. I have used silicone sealant(gasket maker) or gasket shellac, anything that will prevent water from migrating up the bolt threadsQUOTE=tarry99;1196641]Wow and how is France this morning? Top of the day!..............

A couple of things: I would first if you have not already taken the head off , try doing a reverse torque sequence to try and determine if the bolts were stretched or already loose.
Second once the head is off take a long look at the condition of your head & block surface as far a flatness is concerned. The head would be the most obvious for being warped and should be either ground flat or at least checked.........Water will leave stains and or marks on these surfaces showing that the head was perhaps loose on the block or where the gasket failed.........it's a good Idea to do a little detective work during the dis-assembly.
And if the head bolts are etched or corroded along the shaft from rust , replace them.[/QUOTE]

 

okay

thanks for the answers !


for the surface of the block : a friend can give me a tool to see if is in good condition

for the surface head : i want to give it to an enterprise who check , test , and correct defaults


i ll check the both surfaces !!!

for the carburator , i ve alaready my wrench . because mine was so dirt that i had to disconnect from the pipe and clean it .


i ll check the bolts , if there are out of order i ll change them : where i must uy : rockauto , jeep dealer , professionnal bolt dealer ????


i undertsant the problem with rust on the bolts . but with my old english i m not sure that i undertand what i must do with the gasket maker : put gasket maker on the thread and thigten ??????


how is france ????

weather : very fine , not normal for march : 70°f at 2pm in the mont blanc valley !!! the last week end i made my 1st bbq of the season ! snow is melting very quickly . even my cj is excited !! friend of mine use is boat this we on the leman lake (cause i m near geneva ) !!!! i feel a very bad spring
economy : like a guy biking and stuck in the mud with a a government directed by jelly the king !

 

ok


if we have this problem of rust on and in the thread , can i have troubles to unscrew the bolt ? is there any risk of broken bolt ??? if it s risky what must i do before unscrew these bolts

 

Top of the Day!

Sounds like you have covered most of your bases.......Check the block for flatness , look for signs of the migration of water on the head ,block surface & gasket, Have the head looked at for flatness and also pressure checked if you suspect a crack. Perhaps while it is off a valve job may be in order. The studs do require a sealant on the base of the thread. Some folks use a non-hardening type while others may use an anaerobic type that will cure in the absence of air.

On pulling your bolts that may be corroded or rusty take that slow.........if you feel that the amount of pressure required may result in failure, a propane torch can be used to apply a small amount of heat to the head of the bolt.

 

is the right answer for top of the day is : and the rest of the day to you (search google because i dont know that) , i hope i don t make a mistake ..

for my head cylinder : ok . i will start next month

 

Greg, No worries ,Just and Irish term that could also be simply "Good Morning" as it is my time in California whereby I assume it is late in the afternoon there as you read this...........no need to be correct.

Have a nice day and let us know how your project comes along.

 

WAIT WAIT WAIT Is this an F-head? Or L? This has me nervous:

"The studs do require a sealant on the base of the thread. Some folks use a non-hardening type while others may use an anaerobic type that will cure in the absence of air."

Y'all may recall I did the HG and a bunch of other stuff on Barney (F-head) with a lot of help from this site but no one said I had to put sealant on the headbolts....ummm did I miss something?

 

He said "the exhaust valves are on the side of the engine." I take that to mean F-head, especially being a '68.

 

Right, me too, hence the concern.

 

hallo

i ve pulled my head cylinder this we .
one of he bolt was horrible to pulled out ! 2h , 5 little sequences in one way , wd 40 , heater , 5 sequences in reverse !! horrible (i don t know , if you ll understand me) .
all the others were very easy !
on the head gasket i don t see any particular things ... the "hard bolt" was the one where i ve seen coolant leakage on the side of the block .
i ve discovered 2 inserts in the bolck , so some one has already worked on it .
all the threads block are (with my eyes) ok , i ve cleaned them with an old bolt , grease , brush , wd 40 , etc

my problem is in france (at this time) , no one has the head cylinder bolt .

can i use my old ones ??? there are not rusty , and threads are ok .

is there any maximum lenght on these bolts ???

 

These are low-stress engines, and I have re-used old head bolts many times without trouble.

But probably other people would disagree, for theoretical technical and engineering reasons.

 

ok

thank you

greg

 

Many people like to use copper gaskets on these engines. Or copper spray with a fiber gasket.