Is this fuel set up safe?

I recently purchased this 75 cj5. I had a fuel leak from the top of the tank while at a steep incline. I removed the tank to find that it is a homemade tank. I considered replacing with an original style tank but decided that if I can make it work, I'd prefer to use the homemade one. If I could show pics it would make this a little easier. Bare with me.
Sending unit is not original. It is guage only with round cork gasket(I believe this is where the leak was from)There are 4 bungs welded in side of tank, all 1/4 fnpt with 1/4 x 5/16 brass fittigs for supply and return lines and two check valve lines. My main concern is that the supply line goes from tank fitting to maybe 1/4" (hopefully) nylon fuel line to the steel 5/16 line that stops forward of the rear shock mount connected by 5/16 rubber fuel line. Are there going to be performance or safety issues with this set up.

 

When you get a chance I'd like to see some shots of that. The cork will become brittle over time and fall apart, and of course the leak if it were to catch fire could become a serious problem. Remember it is the fumes not liquid that burns.

 

If it's just the gasket that's leaking, you can buy gasket material and make a new gasket for it. These http://www.harborfreight.com/9-piece-hollow-punch-set-3838.html and a pair of sharp scissors are all you need.

In 1975, I'm fairly certain that Jeep was using nylon for the vapor return hoses, but still using steel for liquid fuel. Ford and maybe others used nylon for high-pressure fuel (EFI) by the 80s, so there's nothing wrong with nylon for fuel delivery per se. However, the nylon line is meant to be installed on barb fittings with a special tool, if it is going to seal correctly. The main problem you'll have using nylon without the special barb fittings and tools is making the bare end of the nylon tubing seal to rubber hose. My suggestion, if you want to keep this tank, is to replace all the hoses and lines with well-secured steel for long runs, with the long runs connected by short lengths of good quality rubber fuel hose and clamps.

http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-800-300-Nylon-Repair-Piece/dp/B000XQ5IO4

 

The original steel lines still seem to be in place. 1/4 return line all the way to tank requiring short piece of rubber. 5/16 supply to shock mount requiring 2 1/2 feet or so off alternate line.

 

Also, I have a sender gasket that should be in the mail tomorrow. Surface where sender mounts is uneven and I'm having a hard time getting it flat. I'm hoping to use some sort of sealant to apply to the gasket. Also, what type if thread sealant to use on brass fittings.

 

Rubber fuel line needs to be recent manufacture "ethanol rated" or it will decay.

 

I will be replacing all rubber line.

 

Thank you for the quick replies. I guess the questions i still have are: Is 2 1/2 ft. of rubber ok along rear of frame near exhaust, thread sealant for gas fittings, and gasket goo. Thanks.

 

How close to the exhaust? My 73 when I took it apart was rigged and the gas line had started to melt from being near the exhaust! Glad it never burst into flames.
Curious but I think you can use thread tape or a putty that won't be bothered by the gas.

 

I need to learn how to post pics but looking closer, the 2 1/2 foot of rubber line wouldn't come any closer than about 8" from exhaust. I have been looking at different posts about thread sealants and gasket makers. Of course there are different opinions on what will work best around gasoline.

 

Do you have a photobucket or any other free photo uploading site?
On my old TO30 Ferguson I used plumber's putty and thread tape on the sediment bowl and it never leaked.

 

Re the rubber hose, ideally no. Unless it's a place where there has to be movement like between the engine and chassis, rubber hose is a fire hazard. If I had access, I would eliminate any rubber hose that was not essential and replace it with steel. You can buy lengths of pre-flared steel tubing (brake line) at the local parts store - just bend it to shape. They can be joined with brass or steel pipe unions to make a continuous run without hoses. http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-single-sleeve-compression-tube-fittings/=vy5858

I would use teflon tape.

Gasket goo ... don't know. Most gasket cements will break down with constant exposure to gasoline. I'd be more inclined to buy thicker/better gasket material and try to make it seal that way. McMaster-Carr sells sheets of rubber with different hardness and chemical resistance properties. http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-rubber-sheets/=vy5c0b

 

Permatex Aviation Form A Gasket is fuel resistant and available at NAPA.

Brass compression fittings are very useful for joining steel lines. I agree with using the least amount of rubber hose as possible.

 

Compression fittings will work, but pre-flared steel brake line and brake fittings (as Timgr suggested) are easy and less likely to leak, in my experience.

 

So, because I needed the Jeep for the weekend, I ended up using Permatex #2 for the sender gasket and teflon tape on the fittings. I had a bunch of fun in the desert but found that I still had a leak around sender gasket. I just couldn't get the mating surface flat enough. So I bought an Omix-Ada tank and sending unit. They arrived today. Hoping to install without drama. Thanks for the help.

 

Hey guys. I hit a road block. The original tank brackets are long gone. They don't seem to be available anywhere. They look easy enough to fabricate but would be easier if I new the measurement of the drop. If anyone out there knows the measurement or has the ability to measure their own I'd appreciate the info.
Also, 4wd parts shows that there skid plate listed for 76 and up fits 75. Has anyone used this skid on an intermediate? Thanks.

 

The late-model skid plate will work. Before 1976, the gas tank skid plate was optional, so the tank had to hang up there without the skid plate. From '76 on, they used the skid plate to support the tank - no longer optional. So if you use the late skid plate, you need to strap the tank down to the skid plate. Look here - http://boyink.com/cj6/gas-tank-installing-rear/ - installation in an intermediate will be essentially the same.

 

I'm going to try posting a pic here. It looks like i have brackets for original skid. If this is the case,does that mean i just need the skid and three straps to secure tank to skid?

 

I repaired my fuel tank with epoxy putty with success.
I made a flat gasket using a plastic can of fuel for my wood saw, Stihl gasoline, so I am sure that it resists to fuel. When empty, I cut pieces in it.

This rear tank is not a good idea, difficult to work on it, there should be an access door from above, from the tube near the tailgate.

The filling system/location pipe has curbs so you cannot put a pipe inside to empty it.
It sould be located on the side.

Nothing is perfect.

 

No. If you use the 1976 or later skid plate, you will need to remove those brackets.

If you use the 1975 parts, you need three brackets to attach the fuel tank to the frame. You also need two brackets to attach the skid plate at the front to the frame. The back of the skid plate bolts directly to the crossmember.

If you buy the 1976 or later skid plate, its tank is held in by the skid plate. You should be able to use your 1975 tank with the 1976 skid plate. Then you can strap the tank down to the skid plate, and you will not need the brackets.

I just happened to have this drawing in my archive - it's from the 1975 FSM (you do have a copy of the FSM, don't you?):



You have two "fuel tank attaching brackets" at the back of the tank (only one shown) and one at the front edge of the tank. Your picture above shows the skid plate brackets. The back end of the skid plate attaches to the rear crossmember.

If you have the skid plate, someone will want it along with those brackets. You could sell it to offset the cost of the later skid plate, and solve your problem of the missing attaching brackets. If you are missing the 1975 skid plate, just get the 1976 skid plate and follow the process seen on Boyink's web site. Use your tank and strap it down to the skid plate.

Your alternative would be to make new brackets as in the drawing. BTW putting those bolts in to the rear attaching brackets requires some hand-eye coordination and contortion. Affixing the '76-on parts is much easier mechanically, I would think.