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Dads donated 1960 CJ5 project

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by Tater76, Nov 6, 2014.

  1. Dec 9, 2014
    Fly Navy

    Fly Navy Member

    Emerson, IA
    Joined:
    Jun 6, 2014
    Messages:
    361
    I welded my motor mounts in. I grew up welding and it is pretty much my default position on many things. That way I also didn't have to worry about putting a sleeve in to keep from crushing the boxed portion of the frame.

    I removed my battery tray/engine mount just to clean things up so I never actually checked to see what the clearance would be like if I left it in place.

    If you're lacking the tub at this point, you might have a helper hold your grill square with the frame and use the fenders to mark the approximate location of the firewall on the frame. You could use the mark as a rough reference as you fine tune your positioning until you have the tub. I would certainly recommend waiting to make it all permanent however until you have the tub so you can double check it's clearance. If a notch or two is required, it is kind of nice to know that ahead of time:)
     
  2. Dec 10, 2014
    Tater76

    Tater76 New Member

    Southwest Idaho
    Joined:
    Oct 31, 2014
    Messages:
    27
    I was thinking weld them too, because the sleeve install would be tedious. I moved the engine forward tonight after I removed the e-fan, and got the grill straight. Looks like I am close to where I need to be, but more forward would be better. The brake and clutch can articulate without interfering with each other now. However, the engine looks really low compared to the radiator and grill assembly? I guess with the carb and air cleaner on it will make up the room. Any advice at this point is welcome ;)
    I also mounted the fender just to see about where the firewall will be. Looks like I'm close, but like I said, it needs a little tweaking. Does anyone know if there is a difference in depth of grill/radiator shrouds between the 4cyl and v6? If it was just a few inches thinner I could move the engine more forward. Anyway, Just thought I would show you guys where I am at. Thanks for watching, and the input.
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  3. Dec 10, 2014
    Tater76

    Tater76 New Member

    Southwest Idaho
    Joined:
    Oct 31, 2014
    Messages:
    27
  4. Dec 11, 2014
    Fly Navy

    Fly Navy Member

    Emerson, IA
    Joined:
    Jun 6, 2014
    Messages:
    361
    Tater - I hate to say it, but it still looks like you'll have issues stepping on the brake and clutch at the same time. You mentioned they both articulate without interference, but was that at the same time? I'm not sure how far your clutch fork moves aft but I see a potential fight there between your clutch fork and brake pedal if you step on the both at the same time. I know my brake arm goes down almost level with the frame and rests alongside the master cylinder when depressed.

    It looks like there is room to kick the rear of the drive train to the passenger side and make some more room for your clutch fork. It looks like you lined up the transfer case output with the rear end which is understandable. I would bump the rear over about half the distance to the frame and see if that gives your clutch fork the room it needs... just a thought.
     
  5. Dec 12, 2014
    Tater76

    Tater76 New Member

    Southwest Idaho
    Joined:
    Oct 31, 2014
    Messages:
    27
    Yes the pedals were both at full press, and the linkages had clearance. However, things changed last night after staring at this thing for an hour. First and foremost, the battery tray had to go. That was easy, and cleared the way for more movement. Next I realized an obvious issue with the fan shroud and its orientation to the new engine. The offset on the shroud is to the left, and will have to be modified to center the radiator on the grill. I didn't see any posts on this modification when I did a search? Anyway, I don't want to pay $300 for a used eBay stock v6 grill, so my plan is to remove the shroud from the grill. Doing this will free up up many inches of engine forward room, plus allow me to keep my e-fan. Here are some pics of the new home of the engine after I moved it forward. [​IMG]
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  6. Dec 13, 2014
    Oldriginal86

    Oldriginal86 Member

    Pasadena, Md.
    Joined:
    Nov 5, 2014
    Messages:
    593
    Nice project, brings back memories good and bad. When I put a SBC in my 61, I worked from the firewall forward. Without the tub in place, it's difficult to visualize placement. I had to cut my grill shroud back to the headlight buckets. After radiator was fitted, I welded back in about 2". I would think with the length of the V6, you should be able to fit that in without cutting. Great looking work by the way.
     
  7. Dec 14, 2014
    Tater76

    Tater76 New Member

    Southwest Idaho
    Joined:
    Oct 31, 2014
    Messages:
    27
    Hi there, thanks for the kudos and input :) I do believe you are right about the tub. I just don't feel comfortable tacking the mounts in place until the tub is in place. So, I will pick it up and finish the install. I was looking on google for images of other jeeps that had been converted to v6, and saw that alot of them were using the stock radiator shroud. The problem is that darn offset to the drivers side! It makes the fan far from centered on the radiator. Once I get the tub on I can determine if the shroud will be chopped a few inches. More pics to come!
     
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