Master cylinder push rod

Any advice on adjusting the push rod in a single reservoir master cylinder on a 1967 CJ-5 with 9" drums? Replacing the shoes, lines, wheel cylinders, and master cylinder.
I'm not sure of initial adjustment.
Thanks
Aujack - Richmond, Va

 

Just make sure you have about 1/2" free-play in the pedal.

 

pull back the boot and see if the plunger is all the way back when the pedal is at rest

 

Or just make sure the rod can "rattle" a tiny bit when at rest.

 

I have the same concern, about adjusting the push rod. In my case, it's 1966 cj5 that I'm rebuilding. I put in a new MC and two new front wheel cylinders (will get to the back ones later). I tried to bleed what I have just put in (MC and 2 wheel cylinders) and I get 'nothing' in return (I'll post that issue separately soon). Over the two days of trying to resolved my MC (no fluid going to lines), I saw on a thread that the push rod may be too far in, and not returning back far enough to allow primary cup to rest between the two holes (paths) to the overlying reservoir. Now, here's why I reply to this thread: I put the 5/8" wrench on the push rod 'nut' and turned counter clockwise (so less threads on rod were visible). In all honesty, I can't determine if I'm shorting or lengthening the push rod. I later turned several revolutions clockwise. Is this lengthening? I hesitated to remove the eye bolt to inspect the rod off the MC for fear of not being able to re-insert the rod and eye bolt without un-doing the MC (a major pain)

To sum up: does the pushrod adjustment apply ONLY to peddle 'depth', or can it contribute to the reason for not getting fluid into lines (or even operate the pressure switch for brake lights)? Finally, what direction to turn the rod nut to lengthen the rod and/or shorten the rod (while keeping the eye bolt fixed in place)? -- thanks, Ronnie

 

Just asking the obvious, but did you bench bleed (that's what we call it in Utah) the master cylinder before installing it? They make a kit available at most auto parts stores, just for this task. The good kits can be used for many other things, too.

 

Thanks, Eti -- my 'bench bleeding' consisted of under-the-jeep vacuum withdrawal of bubbles and fluid from the MC exit port. Maybe that's not good enough, and I'll need to run a tube from the exit into the reservoir, followed by slow pumps -- to simulate an actual bench bleed. It's a big pain to remove the MC, so I hope this works for me as a MC bleed. I'll get to it later this week.