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Gun-shot backfire and Holley carburetor

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by Craig1953, Sep 22, 2014.

  1. Sep 22, 2014
    Craig1953

    Craig1953 Member

    Santa Barbara, CA
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    I'll bet this has been covered in the forums before, and I've learned a lot of good information in the threads posted on this site, but I still can't solve the problem. For background, my recently acquired 1967 CJ5 has a V6 engine and it starts and runs great. I had some issues with exhaust "popping", but after cleaning up some crankcase breather hose leaks and replacing the PCValve and tuning her up with new plugs, new plug wires, new rotor, new dist cap, and installing a pertronix ignitor and coil the "popping" has stopped. Now my problem is that on deceleration I get a periodic LOUD exhaust backfire that sounds like a gunshot. It's really embarrassing. Like walking down the sidewalk and, just a the attractive woman coming the other direction looks at you and smiles, you unexpectedly let loose with a deafening trousers thunderclap. Also, living in a high fire danger area in tinder-dry southern California, it might even be a hazard. I've tried the trick of hooking up a shop-vac in reverse to the exhaust pipes and looking for leaks with soapy water, but no bubbles to be seen, so I don't think it's an exhaust leak. The jeep has headers and dual exhaust, which may contribute to the problem. The timing with the vacuum advance tube blocked and at 700 RPM idle is set at 5* btc. All cylinders compression are between 112-116. The manifold pressure holds steady at 16lb at my 2,200 foot elevation. The mechanical advance in the distributor moves freely and the rotor springs back after I rotate it by hand. The vacuum advance can seems to be working OK. I can get the plate to move by pulling the hose from the carburetor and sucking on the tube. So I know the vacuum advance diaphragm isn't broken. Now I'm thinking maybe I need to do something with the carburetor. It is not an original. It is a Holley. I'm not sure of the model because I couldn't see any numbers on it that looked like a model number. I read a good thread on this site about tuning a Holley carburetor, but it didn't look exactly like the one I have. Can any of you identify the model from this picture? I would like to be able to look it up on the Holley site. I imagine the adjustments are similar. Any other advice on how to stop the exhaust backfire?

    Thanks,

    [​IMG]
     
  2. Sep 22, 2014
    colojeepguy

    colojeepguy Colorado Springs

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    That looks like a Holly 350 cfm 2bbl #7448
    Look on the front of the air horn ( the part that sticks up inside the air cleaner)
    The # should be stamped there. Backfiring in the exhaust is a sign it's running rich- you may need to re jet.
     
  3. Sep 23, 2014
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
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    Went through the same sequence you did and couldn't get rid of the exhaust backfire on quick deceleration for 1.5 years. Certainly, as Doug says - could be running rich and need smaller jet size. And I thought that was my problem as well, but turned it really was just a small exhaust leak. Not saying yours has to be an exhaust leak, but even though I checked for one a number of times, I didn't find the exhaust header leak for months and months. There had to be tiny little leak on the underside of the #5 header right against the mounting flange that was just too difficult for me to find when it was on the vehicle until it grew a little bigger. It took some time getting my ear tuned in with the help of what to listen for from the forum - and I could hear it for a while but couldn't find it. (Additionally, the plugs never looked particularly fouled either - so that helped narrow it down as well).

    I also replaced my non-functioning dash-pot, which doesn't truly solve the issue, but can help reduce the normal temporary rich condition when releasing the throttle and that can help reduce the backfire. FWIW - I went back to manifolds with y-pipe and single muffled exhaust exiting rear as opposed to the headers with glass packs and side dumps, and I love it now.
     
  4. Sep 23, 2014
    Craig1953

    Craig1953 Member

    Santa Barbara, CA
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    Feb 5, 2014
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    Thank you both. I will search again for exhaust leaks and try smaller jets. I haven't tried adjusting the idle mixture screws yet. Is that a good place to start, and can that by itself cure a "too rich" condition? The Holley site says that the factory sets the carbs for 70º at sea level and that you should use a jet that is one size smaller for every 2,000 feet of increased elevation. I live in the mountains above Santa Barbara at 2,200 feet, but drive to sea level every day. Does it make a difference? It backfires the same on the mountain as it does down by the shore. I don't think the Holley carb has a dashpot. James, was your leak at a gasket or actually in the header tubing?
    Thanks,
    Craig
     
  5. Sep 23, 2014
    colojeepguy

    colojeepguy Colorado Springs

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    The Holly getting advice is good, as far as it goes, but also remember that you're dealing with an engine that's only 225 cubic inches.
    I'm not sure what the factory jetting is set up for, but I'm sure it's a much bigger engine.
    The idle mixture screws only affect the idle circut.
     
  6. Sep 23, 2014
    duffer

    duffer Rodent Power

    Bozeman, MT
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    2x But don't run it too lean. That makes for exhaust valves with a very short life and isn't much better on pistons and rings. Personally, if you get the Jeep into the rocks, any Holley center pivot bowl version would not be on my desired card list. They REALLY don't do well at steep angles. That said, it could be converted to the side hung bowl.
     
  7. Sep 23, 2014
    scoutpilot

    scoutpilot Member

    Asheboro, NC
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    ​You may want to double check that timing. It may be a bit retarded.
     
  8. Sep 23, 2014
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
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    The crack was on the header tube right around where the end of the tube is welded to what I would call the mounting flange (the part that goes against the engine). When I removed the headers, I think a PO had tried resealing the header gaskets with a bunch of rtv and it was kind of everywhere, so maybe could have been leaking a bit there as well.

    Can you tell if you are running rich from looking at the plugs? As others have said, the idle mixture only controls fuel/air mix when at idle. When running the engine at higher RPM and need more fuel, the fuel takes a different passage way through the carb and the idle mixture screws are not used, so it can idle fine but still run rich all other times. That is when the jet size needs to be reduced.
     
  9. Sep 23, 2014
    Craig1953

    Craig1953 Member

    Santa Barbara, CA
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    Thanks, Doug. I just checked and the jets that are in there now are size 56. Do you have an opinion as to how much smaller I should go? I could get a few different sizes and try them, but what would be "too lean" as John warned about?
     
  10. Sep 23, 2014
    colojeepguy

    colojeepguy Colorado Springs

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    Just offhand that sounds pretty small, but I can't offer an opinion on that without knowing for sure what size jets came in it stock. Normally, you can only go around 8-10 jet sizes before you're out of the calibration range of the carb.
    Two things you need to do-
    1. Get the carb # & look up the factory jetting
    2. Look at your plugs & see if they show indications of running rich
     
  11. Sep 23, 2014
    Craig1953

    Craig1953 Member

    Santa Barbara, CA
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    Thanks.
    It looks like the factory jet is 61. I will try to check the plugs tomorrow.
     
  12. Sep 23, 2014
    cj6/442

    cj6/442 Sponsor

    Fallbrook, Calif
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    mehhh
    mineruns great but sounds like a ups truck when decelerating ,,,,I like it people look and get out of the way
     
  13. Sep 23, 2014
    duffer

    duffer Rodent Power

    Bozeman, MT
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    If the plugs are near white and the exhaust white to light tan, it is probably too lean. 56 jets are not to likely far off what you need but you could drop a couple sizes and just watch what happens to the plugs and exhaust. It's been a long time since I had the 450 cfm Holley 4bbl apart on my 225, but I think those are 48 or 49's in both sides. But the primary side of that carb is a lot smaller than yours.
     
  14. Sep 24, 2014
    AKCJ

    AKCJ Active Member

    Fairbanks, Alaska
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    I too had the loud back fire on decel many years ago. Sometimes it would be right after I turned the key off. Pretty much ruined the mufflers. This was with the stock R 2G carb. Never did figure out the problem but it went away.
     
  15. Sep 24, 2014
    Craig1953

    Craig1953 Member

    Santa Barbara, CA
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    OK. I looked at the plugs today. The three on the driver's side are clean and white, the ones on the passenger side are dirty and dark. Here's some pics.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Those pictures were taken after it had been idling for about 15-20 min. I tried to adjust the idle metering screws after watching a video via the Holley website. Didn't seem to change anything. I also re-checked the timing, which appears to be per specs. Checked the compression and cylinders 1-6 read 115-112-112-115-116-116.

    Here's a little video so you can see what it sounds like. The exhaust on the passenger side sounds different than on the driver side. So, any thoughts on what my next step should be given that things seem to be running rich on the passenger side, but the compression all looks good?

    [​IMG]

    Thanks,
    Craig
     
  16. Sep 25, 2014
    uncamonkey

    uncamonkey Member

    Greeley CO
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    You may want to read a bit on the proper distributor instalation in an oddfire V6. Several members here have run them for years out of time. As we say, do a search, your plugs are telling me that your distributor isn't installed right. That and the backfire. Then again, if your dwell is off, the passenger side plugs aren't going to fire correctly.
    I believe many of the members have been working on these OF beasts for over 50 years, my first was a 1962 Fireball.
    Don't be afraid to ask questions.

    Telling us your location would also help, there may be a member close that could help you.
     
  17. Sep 25, 2014
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Falcon, CO
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    I would have to second that - Just helped a guy figure out he has been running and EF Distributor on an OF motor for several years. He said it 'felt good', but I'm sure its a whole new perspective now.
     
  18. Sep 25, 2014
    Walt Couch

    Walt Couch sidehill Cordele, Ga. 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    cordele, Ga.
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    Will say that there are probably more than a few 225 o.f. running even fire distributors unknowingly. If your jeep is spinning it's wheels and/or breaking your T90/T-86/T-14 then you have a properly tuned 225v6 O.F. :twisted:
     
  19. Sep 25, 2014
    gdi70

    gdi70 New Member

    roseville/lincoln
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    when i got my jeep the distributor was exactly the problem. the po had installed the correct cap, but it was the pickup coil that was the give away. i purchased a new odd fire pickup coil on rock auto. very cheap, and worked well. now i have a range of adjustment that the jeep never had before. although, i still have initial time at 5 degrees btdc. i am still having some carb issues with the mc2100 swap, but overall, it's much better than the 2g in my rig.


    part number D1995C

    http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=266829&cc=1023174
     
    Last edited: Sep 25, 2014
  20. Sep 25, 2014
    Craig1953

    Craig1953 Member

    Santa Barbara, CA
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    Thanks. I think that's where the problem lies! Awhile back I was concerned that the plug wire going to the number one cylinder was attached to the distributor at the post with the number 3 molded into the cap. I set the No. 1 cylinder to TDC on the compression stroke and the rotor lined up with the No. 3 contact on the distributor cap so I left it alone. Now I have reinstalled the distributor so that the rotor points to the No. 1 contact when No. 1 cylinder is at TDC. Put all of the plug wires in the proper firing order and re-set the timing. It starts right up and idles smooth and the plugs on the passenger side are now looking clean with good color. But I still get a loud BANG if I increase the RPMs and then let off the throttle.

    I will do some more research here as you suggested. Is there an easy way to tell if I have the right distributor and cap? The new cap that I put on is the same kind as the old one that I replaced.

    This is a 1967 CJ5 and I am in Santa Barbara, CA

    Thanks,
    Craig
     
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