Fusible Links

Huh? Anything before the fuse is unprotected. So you could run a single fusible link to your fuse block, then run fused lines to each of your circuits.

The contact side of the relays is isolated from the circuits that activate the relay coils. You need to protect both sides, somehow. So, for example, you would have your power lead, then low amperage fuse, which goes to the headlight switch and the dimmer. The circuit goes to ground at the relay coil. Low amperage. Then you need another power lead, a fuse or circuit breaker, to the relay contacts, and out to the lights. The whole point of the relays is to isolate the high amperage circuits that actually power the devices from the low amperage switching circuits. The relay acts as a buffer between the two circuits, with the relay contacts handling the heavy loads.

 

What I would do, if I had my choice of those parts, is put the "always hot" block next to the battery or starter solenoid, and run a very short and well protected wire (10 ga?) to the stud. Then each of the fuses could power the contacts of one of your relays.

Thus the only unprotected wire goes from the solenoid to the fuse block. You really can't avoid having a short run like that that is unprotected. You could substitute a fusible link, but it would be pointless because the only thing the fusible link would be protecting is the fusible link. Capeesh?

The switching circuits and instruments and running lights would be protected by the fuse box under the dash, typically. The wire that runs from the solenoid or battery to under the dash would be protected by a single fusible link, typically. All the fusible link does is protect the power feed to the car. The power then branches out to the circuits of the car. Beyond the fuse box, the circuits are protected by the individual fuses for each circuit.

The charging circuit (alternator and regulator) and starter are wired separately, with no protection (again typically).

Sounds like you do not have it straight in your head what you want to do and how it might be accomplished. Suggest you could write out a block diagram of what I have described, and maybe that may make it clearer.

 

Capeesh. When I posted last night, I was temporarily confused (kind of like temporary insanity, which I'm also afflicted by, but that's another story). When I installed the "always hot" panel in the cab, I though I was finally ready to run the "trigger" wires (I don't know what else to call them) that tell the relays to open the flood gates. Then I looked at that panel, scratched my head and thought, "Wait a minute. They're trigger wires. They actually have a function--to close the contacts on the relays. Therefore, they need to be activated via a switch". That's when I realized I couldn't get there from here:

So, I used this to power the turn and hazard flashers, heater fan switch, brake light switch and 12V charging receptacles.

As far as the short wire from the battery to a panel feeding the relays, I have that. Not exactly as you describe, but serving the same function. I agree that protecting that wire would be redundant, as you say. Here it is:

 

Pretty much got all the wiring done, except for the turn signal indicators. I'll probably get those lights tomorrow and finish that. The only other thing for now is the horn. This Jeep has a steering column out of a 1988 Cherokee. I think the horn wire is black, but that's just from what little info I've been able to find on the web. The horn has never been hooked up (I had Bubba'd in a dash button), but I had the cap off the wheel and the plunger is there, I just cant see the wire. I'll figure that out. Other than that, everything is great! The lights are super bright! But the most noticeable thing is that the voltage gauge reads around 14.3 idling. I verified that with a voltmeter. And with the fan and lights on, it still reads around 14, though I did bump the idle up a bit too. And no more flicking gauge when the turn signals are on. Also, I have high beams now! The column-mounted high beam didn't work, I had to reach down and move the rod by hand, so I rarely used the brights. I installed a floor mounted switch. Now to fix the other problems...

 

What I found in the diagrams is a black wire coming off the column slip ring and changing to a gray-red to the horn relay.

 

Hey thanks Walt, that'll save me some time!

 

Thanks Walt!

[video=youtube;9v0HYIVOOcQ]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9v0HYIVOOcQ&list=UUpaTOOpWVPlN_PiRcmLmyyA[/video]

 

Quel excitement!

Another inspection point checked off.

 

Yep, it shows what kind of life I lead, but it actually was exciting to finally beep the horn from the steering column for the first time since I've owned the Jeep! Thanks for your help Tim. The whole wiring thing went pretty well for a greenhorn hack. I wouldn't even attempt some of this stuff if not for the knowledge that I can come here and get help if--I mean when--I get stumped.