1967 V6 distributor wires

Just tuned up my (new to me) 1967 CJ5 V6. Timing at 5* BTDC and dwell 30. It seems to run really well, except I can't seem to get rid of some "popping" at idle and when I'm decelerating in 2nd gear. But I have a question about the distributor cap. The cylinder numbers are molded into the cap, and the one marked No. 1 is at approximately 7 o'clock as you look down on it from the passenger side. The actual plug wire that goes to the No. 1 cylinder is plugged into the terminal marked No. 3. From there the wires are in the correct order 1-6-5-4-3-2. When I put the No. 1 piston at TDC on the compression stroke and take the distributor cap off, the rotor is pointing to the No. 3 wire position at about 5 o'clock. Is this anything to be concerned about?

Thanks

 

The last person to install the dist just did not line up the rotor to fire on #1 cap position.

 

So, just put No. 1 at TDC, pull the distributor out, turn the rotor to point to the No. 1 cap position and put the distributor back in to make the wires agree with the cap markings, right? (Index all of the wires to the correct positions, of course.)

Thanks

 

Yes, you pretty much to have the correct idea. Backfiring can also come from exhaust leaks.
You might also consider going to an electronic ignition system at this time, DUI, HEI, Pertronix. It's up to you.
Then again, if a point system is set up right, and all or the other parts are in good shape, they work fine and can do so for many years. I think I'm at 6 years on my Commando with no adjustments to the points. Yes, it' my DD.

 

Thanks to all. This site has really helped. Lots of good people here.

 

Thanks for the info. I am looking for an exhaust leak, but can't see or hear anything that would indicate a leak. Any tips/techniques for finding exhaust leaks?

 

Hook up a shop vac hose on the blower side, than to your exhaust pipe and feel for leaks, or spray some soap and water and look for bubbles.

 

Huh. I had never heard of that. Sounds promising though.

The usual advice is to use a mechanics stethoscope and listen for leaks. Or you can use a piece of plastic or rubber tubing in one ear - just be careful not to direct hot exhaust gases into your ear.

 

I have used the soapy water and shop vac before and there will be no leak escape it. Just like finding a leak in a tire.

 

Yep, Tim, I have found a couple hard to find leaks, this way. On fire truck's and such.

 

Thanks for that tip. I had thought of trying to use soapy water to find an exhaust leak, but I figured the exhaust would be so hot it would just evaporate the water on contact. The trick of hooking up a shop vac in reverse is one I'll remember.

I don't think there was an exhaust leak, but I did solve my "popping" problem. I wanted to stop the oil leaking out of a jury-rigged PCValve/hose connection on the valve cover on the driver's side. After reading the service manual and several posts here I found that the valve covers were reversed, i.e. the one with the single hole for the PCValve was on the driver's side, and the one with the filler cap and hole for the breather were on the passenger's side. There is a metal "shield" covering the rocker arms on the passenger side just below the hole where the PCValve is supposed to go. Someone here commented that the shield is probably to keep oil from getting into the PCV valve and hose. There is not such shield on the driver's side. Also the grommet for the PCValve was torn. I switched the valve covers to the correct sides and replaced the PCValve and grommet. The "popping" has stopped.