73 CJ5 front hubs

I searched but didn't find anything....I need to replace the wheel bearings in the front end (and service the hubs) and I can't figure how to get them apart.

I've done the hubs on my '7, but for some reason this '5 baffles me...a quick run down or link would help.

Thanks.

 

Auto-locking hubs can be confusing. But conventional hubs are easy. Remove the dial, bend over the lock tab, remove the snap ring if present, and unscrew the spindle nuts. Wheel hub comes off. Remove the bolts to separate the locking hub from the wheel hub. You need a big socket - cheap from the Jeep retailers.

 

Post some picts if you can. I've got to replace the U-joint on the front axle and have done an 'open knuckle' before.

Thanks,
_Dan

 

The good ole Warn Lock-O-Matic. 6 bolts--removed.





Axle snap ring-removed. Can I pull the whole hub off?
There is a larger snap ring that I think holds the locking hub itself together.

Am I missing something? I have a hub nut socket for my CJ7, but this is different.
It seems the lock-o-matic might be different.

Got it. Being slow and cautious so as to not break unobtainuim parts can be frustrating, but it's worth it. Pics to following.

 

Lock-o-matic is auto locking.

Your pictures are too small to see much.

Pretty sure these hubs have a lock nut that threads on the end of the spindle and uses allen head set screws. The set screws will be in holes in the lock nut that fill with grease. Not every hole in the ring has set screws IIRC 3 of the 5 holes have screws. Probe in the holes and you will feel the socket in the set screw.

 

Right you are. I think my pics get resized when they are imported.
There were three issues....the lock-o-matic hubs I'd never seen before; the hub body was 'frozen' on the spindle and I was hesitant to use force; and once I figured out the set screws it was figuring out that the damn "washer" screwed off. Needless to say the other side will be done in record time.

 

OK...got everything cleaned and greased, new seal and when I install the hub body it doesn't seem to go back far enough. I can't get the axle snap ring on, the groove isn't showing.
Did I not seat the bearings enough?
Also the damn little lock washer with the three set screws is kind of a PITA and a POS.
How easy/ hard is it to stick on a set of regular 6 bolt hubs?

 

I would just need this

And new hubs right?

 

Without the snap ring the axle can slide inward. You can either push it back out from the diff side or pull it through from the hub side.

 

Yup, I accounted for that. It looks like that little lock ring has cracked (as was warned in other threads).
I'm beginning to not like this Jeep. Good thing it's my Son's and not mine.

 

You need to pull out on the axle.

There is a (7/16"-20 IIRC) threaded hole in the end of the axle. Put a bolt in there and pull on the axle. That should expose the snap ring groove enough so that you can replace the snap ring.

Did you break something? Show us what you need.

 

Yep, this is what you need with conventional (not Lock-o-matic) hubs. Thick washer, nut, thin washer, nut, and bend over the thin washer to lock the outer nut. And you need a socket for the spindle nut - cheap from the Jeep retailers like Oconee.

If you're willing to spend the money, the new hubs are easy to install. The tab washers to lock the bolts are hard to source - Herm might have them. I used studs with Loctite to the wheel hub and nylon insert nuts on mine.

 

The little bugger to the right has cracked. I'm going to try to back it off, re-seat the bearings (I have he correct large socket) and re-install. I do have the axle all the way out, but it's obvious I did something wrong. At this point I may just buy a set of normal hubs.

 

IIRC I have one in my scrap pile. PM me if you are interested.

 

The secret revealed. When installing the hub inner body (?) or this part...
....it needs to be whacked with a hammer -dead blow and/or block of wood- in order to be seated. Duh!

 

yes they need a good whack to get the pads up over the ring. wish i would have seen this thread earlier i would have suggested that. lock-o-matics are a bit of a hot item. if you clean them up and everything is in reasonable shape theyll nearly pay for a brand new set of regular hubs. but im not a big fan of them anyway the little hex head screws will become a problem before too long. the old style is much easier to deal with when they get all cruddy and corroded