Brake system setup for d30 swap under 67 cj5

Happy Friday everyone. I guess I don't have as good of a grasp on braking systems as I thought. I just got a dana 30 for my 67 out of an 80 cj5. It's a narrow track with discs and the 6 bolt hubs. I'm confused about how to actually set up the brakes with this new combo. I have stock 10" drums in back and was planning on swapping in the swinging pedal setup from a Cherokee with master cylinder and slave for hydraulic clutch. If I choose the pedal assembly from a Cherokee that was disc/drum, would I be ok as far as compatibility goes? I know it's not a straight bolt in but is it close enough? I can bend brake line, i have the tools...just wondering about things like pro portioning valves, residual pressure, etc. I know a lot of guys like aftermarket pedal assemblies but I'm going the cheap route. Thanks

 

I have had good luck using the stock Cherokee proportion valve also along with the pedals, booster and master. Nice to have a $25 master that is readily available also. The stickshift Cherokees are getting few and far between though for donor parts. Around here they only stay in the wrecking yards for a month or so. I pretty much grab the pedal setups anytime I find them now.

 

Don't mean to hijack the thread, but do have a question.

For the DJ build, I picked up a Cherokee pedal assembly (1986 as I recall...) along with the booster and MC for both clutch and brakes. Also got the junction block that is located near the brake MC and I'm not sure if that block has the proportioning valve in it. I assume the Cherokee had discs up front (this was at the picknpull and don't recall)

Anyhow, I'm going to run 11" drums all the way around and of course the front wheel cylinders are larger. With that pedal assembly, booster and MC, will I need any proportioning valve? If I don't, and need to remove it, where exactly is it located? I don't intend to use that junction block when running the hydraulic lines

 

The key is matching brake components that are of equal volume in size from donor to your Jeep and since you did not mention we will assume this is a manual non-power brake system that your talking about!............If the donor Master is in fact from a Disc/ Drum system your partially home. But if your using a larger Caliper piston size or different sized drum brakes both of those will upset the system as compared to the donor meaning your brake system may not act or work as well as it did in the donor vehicle.
Disc systems take more pressure and larger volumes of fluid to operate. On the surface that means that you will need more mechanical advantage at the brake pedal ( Ratio ) and a larger volume Reservoir at least for the front. Most Disc / drum M/C should already have residual valves built in so that is also a plus.
Try to get a handle on what size piston caliper's were on the front and what sized wheel cylinders were used on the rear of the donor and see how they match up to the components you have.
Again this is all simple hydraulic's matching up the force generated by the pedal to the requirements of the stopping components used.

 

Thanks for all the tips guys. I guess the first real step to this swap is finding or buying pedals.