Motorcraft Carburetor Identification

Gentlemen, I'd greatly appreciate your assistance in identifying the particulars for this Motorcraft carburetor. My friend is helping with the rebuild, but is having trouble identifying the appropriate rebuild kit. I attempted to ID myself, but I'd feel better getting y'alls opinion before I order. Thank you in advance.

 

It's a Motorcraft 2100. It was on your 304 Jeep? Why do you think the kit for a Jeep of your year and engine is not right?

 

Thank you timgr. The 304 is not native to my Jeep (according to the body tag) and someone took different liberties with how they set things up. She's a peculiar bird, so before ordering I wanted to make sure nothing looked weird on it.

 

Do you recommend a particular rebuild kit?

 

I'd get whatever kit Napa or my local independent parts store is selling. The kit will come in a box with a window or an inner plastic bag so you can see the contents. The packaging is designed to let you visually inspect the kit components without breaking the inner seal.Take the carburetor apart and compare the parts through the bag or window before you open the kit. Once you open the inner seal, the kit is yours. The parts store should accept a return/exchange on the kit as long as the seal is not broken.

Sometimes the listings for carb kits by application are weird/wrong. A '74 304 CJ Jeep had a 4DM2 or 4DM2J (CA) Motorcraft 2100 carburetor from the factory. This looks like the correct carburetor to me. I don't see what the difficulty is - a little more detail about your difficulty may help. The parts counter guy should be able to look up the original carb with its tag number (4DM2) or from the application and knowing it's a Motorcraft 2100.

You seem quite unsure about this - you could use this carb as a core for a reman. It's the right core for your application. You could also get a carb from the guy on ebay that sells them http://www.ebay.com/itm/221408680931 - this guy has a great reputation and will fix you up with a carb that will work fine on your 304. He can probably give you a discount from the kit price, since you don't need any of the conversion parts, and you can send him the old carb. He also promises to help you until it works right.

 

When I did mine I was told to check the shape of the carb bowl gasket vs the one in the kit. There will be multiple gaskets and parts in the kit so not everything in the kit will be used, but if you get the right bowl gasket you'll be on the right track for the kit. I think the only other thing that *might* differ is the power valve, but I just used the one in my kit and it worked fine.

 

For the real skinny call PONY Carbureters in Las Cruces NM. There is an ID on the carb body that they can cross to the exact carb that you have.

 

Their web site is still up, but the story back in 2011 was that they had closed due to the death of the proprietor.

Give them a call - they may be carrying on, operating under the same name.

 

I haven't called em for quite a while.. I have since installed TBI so have no need. I see they are now called Champion Carbureter 1-855-832-6743

 

Thanks for all the info folks. I bought this carb rebuilt about 10 years ago and haven't had to mess with it. The Jeep's been sitting for almost 2 years now and I have a friend (mechanic) who's going to rebuild it, but I'm in TX and he (and my Jeep) are in NC. I was just hoping to buy a kit online if possible and ship it to him. It's hard when I don't have the carb in my hands, he just took the photos for me. I'll just tell him to take it down to the local NAPA and they should be able to help.

 

I resurrecting this thread because I've been hunting a rebuild kit without any luck, and
since mine is very similar to the above post, perhaps it might help someone else in the future.

In short I'd like to know about any problems I should look out for. I'm contemplating just getting online and ordering a kit for a 2100...
-=- Pictures of Mine -=-
It is another Holley Reman. #5119AA, 1764-967240 | On the left dogear the numbers '2' & '3MEA' are stamped.


When I went to NAPA the instructions in the kit referenced on their computer showed a Holley style 2v and
none of the gaskets looked like they would fit an MC. I even mentioned the # 4DM2 noted above and didn't get
any results at the counter.

On their site though they reference Type F-2 models.
$27 - $74 ... The ~$70 ones appear to be for the 2150. Even though it doesn't matter, all the reference pictures are the same.

On NAPA's site the reference numbers for the $27 kit (p/n CRB 25499A) are #'s 1RA2, 3DA2, 3DM2, 4RHD2
The have an instruction sheet online and it denotes AMC 1968-1974.

The reference numbers for the $43 kit (p/n CRB 25761) are:
#'s 4DM2, 4DMJ2, 4RA2, 5DM2, 5DM2J, 5RHA2J, 6DA2J, 6DM2, 6DM2J, 6RHA2, 6RHM2, 8DA2J, 8DA2JC, 8RHA2C
and the instruction sheets denote 1974-1980, passenger cars & Jeeps®

The measurements seem the same between '73 & '74 except for the fast idle cam...
What the devil is the difference between the $27 one and the $43 one?

If only the tag was left on.
/me thinks it's easier to rebuild rochesters....

_Dan

 

What's that adapter on the manifold?

 

4bbl intake to 2bbl carb adapter.
Looks like a Ford carb to me-it has the kickdown lever, which I don't think AMC used.

 

There's an Edelbrock Torker manifold underneath all that. I was rather surprised by that when we vacuumed out the
squirrel's nuts and debris. I believe I did a double take and grabbed a wire brush to verify.

 

The price difference typically is the single-stage power valve vs the 2-stage one. You have a single stage, as evidenced by the shallow power valve cover.

The $27 kit should be ok. When you get the kit, it will have an inner bag or cello-wrapped box. Do not open until you compare the parts from your carburetor and the ones in the bag/box. In particular, compare that the top cover gasket is the same as the one you have. There will be lots of extra parts in the kit to cover many applications.

The essential parts are the top cover gasket, replacement accelerator pump diaphragm, the power valve, the red silicone 1-way valve for the accelerator pump, a base gasket, a power valve cover gasket, and a power valve to body gasket. There are a few other little gaskets. There will probably be no choke pull-off diaphragm in the kit, so treat it gently so you can reuse it.

It may be a Ford carburetor, but the reman company will build carbs as universally as as possible, to reduce their stocking numbers. So this could be a proper replacement for the Jeep carb, built with a kick-down so it will work with Ford apps too.

You could sell the manifold and go with a factory 2V manifold (worth its weight in iron - should be easy to obtain), or fit a 4V carb now.

 

Open vacuum ports on the carb are bad. You need a PCV connection. it normally goes to the plugged base port, and the manifold vacuum at the front of the engine is for power brakes. What is distributor vacuum connected to?

 

Huh, I have on my Jeep a Torker intake with a Carter AFB (Aluminum Four Barrel)
Are there any perks to this set up?

 

Aside from more power? Probably not.

Downside is not smog cert, likely not as good on the trail, lower gas mileage. IIRC the Edelbrock is the modern version of the AFB - the actual AFB is long out of production. Don't know specifically about the Torker, other than it's a 4V manifold. Search on IFSJA - the Wagoneer guys do the 4V conversion a lot.

 

Thanks timgr

 

The Torker is a higher RPM single plane manifold. For off roading, you'd want the Edelbrock Performer dual plane manifold, which has a lower RPM range. The AFB is a great street carb, but IME doesn't work well off road.