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Another Saginaw question

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by twatson, Jan 24, 2005.

  1. Jan 24, 2005
    twatson

    twatson New Member

    Near Fresno, CA
    Joined:
    Mar 22, 2004
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    10
    I know there has been a lot of discussion in the past about the Saginaw conversion for the CJ5 Dauntless V6 in the past threads but I have a more specific question about the steering linkages. I bought a 67 CJ5 2 years ago that someone had already done a 3 bolt manual Saginaw conversion. After all this time my son and I are finally getting this frame up restoration/education process complete but I note that the steering linkage is stressed too much where the rod end attaches on the driver's right side due to the geometry. It appears to have too much of an angel forward to the pitman arm. Not much is written about what others have done with respect to the steering linkages/pitman arm and I am interested in the thoughts and help from others that have been through this. Thanks.
     
  2. Jan 24, 2005
    53Flattie

    53Flattie Intigator

    Easley, SC
    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2002
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    I'm not exactly sure that I understand the question. Any way to get a picture for us, or to draw out a diagram.

    Not to split hairs or anything - and just to make sure you get the help you need if you go to a local 4x4 shop or parts store:

    Steering Linkage = the shaft that attaches the steering column to the Saginaw box
    Tie Rod = Steel tube w/ tie rod ends running from one knuckle to the other
    Drag Link = Steel tube runing from pitman arm to passenger side knuckle.

    Edit: Welcome to the board. Be sure to fill out your profile so we know where you are. There might be a member just down the street from you.
     
  3. Jan 24, 2005
    twatson

    twatson New Member

    Near Fresno, CA
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    Mar 22, 2004
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    Thanks. I am at work now but I will try to attach some pictures later when I get home. Basically I am talking about the angle the drag link makes as it passes forward from the passenger side knuckle to the pitman arm.
     
  4. Jan 24, 2005
    Jeepenstein

    Jeepenstein Me like Jeep.. 2024 Sponsor

    North Central FL
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    Jun 15, 2003
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    try a dropped pittman arm??


    BUBBA
     
  5. Jan 24, 2005
    twatson

    twatson New Member

    Near Fresno, CA
    Joined:
    Mar 22, 2004
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    Here are the fotos. Basically the angle of the drag link forward is too much so the joint at the knuckle is maxxed out or maybe even forced a little.
     
  6. Jan 24, 2005
    twatson

    twatson New Member

    Near Fresno, CA
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    Mar 22, 2004
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    I am not sure a dropped pitman would make much difference. In fact it may cause the drag link to hit the springs.
     
  7. Jan 25, 2005
    Jeepenstein

    Jeepenstein Me like Jeep.. 2024 Sponsor

    North Central FL
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    hh i see, the only thing I can come up with is making a custom link that is bent in an offset, maybe kinda $$$$ though...

    BUBBA
     
  8. Jan 25, 2005
    Boyink

    Boyink Super Moderator Staff Member

    Tulsa, OK
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    Sep 20, 2002
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    Maybe I'm not understanding the issue, but wouldnt the fix be moving the steering box back towards the firewall a bit?
     
  9. Jan 25, 2005
    53Flattie

    53Flattie Intigator

    Easley, SC
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    That's exactly what I was thinking too, Mike... But, having moved a steering box mount once (after welding it on) - I would consider it a last resort.

    Twatson: How about this... If you went to the 2-hole knuckle on the passenger side, you would eliminate your problems. The drag link would then be attached directly to the passenger knuckle (via the second hole), rather than attaching to the tie rod. This puts both tie rod ends on the same "plane", rather than having one end facing front-to-back, and the other facing up-and-down.

    Kinda hard to explain, but if you think on it a bit, it might become clear. If not, we'll try to get you a picture.
     
  10. Jan 25, 2005
    lynn

    lynn Time machine / Early CJ5 HR Rep Staff Member

    Huntingdon PA
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    Sep 20, 2002
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    I agree that the box appears too far forward. Tim, I'm not convinced that a two-hole arm will offer enough correction in the front-to-back misalignment between the knuckle and the end of the pitman arm.
    I believe there are pitman arms of different lengths available. If you could find one about 2 inches longer it may help. I'm not sure what applications would be longer but still have the same spline count and indexing. Sounds like an afternoon in the boneyard on a search...

    Although the longer pitman arm may help with the angle, I think it will also have the effect of "quickening" the steering... perhaps to an unacceptable level? Short of some tricky math that is over my head :rofl: you'd have to go with trial and error.

    You would still benefit from the two-hole knuckle, even if it doesn't help the issue of front-to-back misalignment between the end of the pitman arm and the steering knuckle. It will help to keep your tie rod and drag link closer to the same plane. If up-down angularity is a problem, and the two-hole knuckle does't give enough correction, there's always the tie rod flip kit from GoFerIt products.

    HTH
     
  11. Jan 25, 2005
    neptco19

    neptco19 That guy....

    Athens, GA
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    Sep 26, 2003
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    What if you used some high mis-alignment rod ends rather than the standard TRE??
     
  12. Jan 25, 2005
    53Flattie

    53Flattie Intigator

    Easley, SC
    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2002
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    What I was getting at is not that the 2-hole knuckle will bring the drag link in line with the tie rod. Rather, since the tie rod ends will both be facing the same direction (vertical), they won't be stressed to their limit of movement. As it is now, the TRE that's attached to the tie rod is maxed out because it's on a horizontal axis, which is opposite of the TRE at the pitman arm.

    Again - maybe I'm going a poor job of explaining my idea, but I think it'll work! I can post some "example" pictures tonight if need-be.
     
  13. Jan 25, 2005
    lynn

    lynn Time machine / Early CJ5 HR Rep Staff Member

    Huntingdon PA
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    I know what you are saying Tim, I wasn't thinking about how the TREs may be maxed by facing different directions. (I had to go back, look at the pics, read what twatson wrote, look at the pics, read what you wrote, visualize my old Commando-style set up... then I got it! :D ) So a 2-holer would correct that, as well as possibly improve the angle between the drag link and the tie rod since it will mount slightly higher.
    Putting both of the tie rods on the same plane should negate the ill effect of the box/pitman arm being somewhat forward of the knuckle hole.

    Tim, go ahead with your example pics if you have time tonight.
     
  14. Jan 26, 2005
    twatson

    twatson New Member

    Near Fresno, CA
    Joined:
    Mar 22, 2004
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    I appreciate all your thoughts. What exactly do you mean by a 2 holed knuckle. Is this some kind of after market entity or used on another Jeep. Maybe some pictures would help me understand better. Thanks.
     
  15. Jan 26, 2005
    w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    Port Orange, FL
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    A two-holed knuckle was used on the Commandos, and had two holes in the passenger side; One for the tie rod and one for the drag link. If you go this route, you will need to get the drag link tube from the Commando as well, since it is longer.

    Not sure about the knuckle, but I know Herm Tilford has the drag link you need to go this route. www.hermtheoverdriveguy.com Mebbe try R&P for the knuckle?
     
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