Will '67 tapered dana 44 carrier fit a '71 dana 44 with flanged axles?

I have the tapered rear axle now with 4.89 gears and might have the chance to get a 1971 flanged dana 44 that currently has 3.73 gears. Will my carrier or ring gears or anything swap right over? Thanks.

 

The 71 axle is a trac lok too btw.

 

The 1967 axle has 19 involute splines while the 1971 offset flanged has 30 rolled splines.
They use different differential case side gears to accept the different axle shafts
3.73 FDR uses a series 3 differential.
4.89 FDR requires a series 4 differential.
You can swap the 4.89 ring and pinion into the offset flanged only if you aquire a 30 spline series 4 differential.

 

Great info old time thanks. How hard would it be to find said differential? Is that an aftermarket thing or would I need to scour junkyards?

 

Would this be the item?

http://www.jegs.com/i/Auburn-Gear/109/542082/10002/-1?parentProductId=

 

Also, I actually have a 74 or 75 dana 44 front axle from a Chevy blazer...would that be the diff I need?

 

The break for the D44 is 3.73 and down, or 3.92 and up - look here http://www.ringpinion.com/b2c/Parts...odelID=372&Side=Rear&DriveType=4WD&DiffID=135

For conventional 4.88 gears (ie not the special thick gears) you must use what Ken call the series 4 case, for 3.92 and up.

Decide which differential you want to use (open, TracLock, something else). If you want to keep the TracLock, you could buy a series 4 TracLock case, and swap the 4.88 gears to that. As Ken says, you need spider gear with 30 spines to match the axle shafts in the '71 axle.

The Auburn would work. It would match your axle shafts and the 4.88 gears. Setting up a differential from scratch is not trivial - you need to be an expert with the right tools or hire someone who is and does.

Re the Chevy, we don't know enough about it from your description. How many splines, what ratio now, locker, open, what?

 

Comparable Auburn at Randy's - http://www.ringpinion.com/b2c/Produ...3255&Product=AG_5420109-HP&Brand=Auburn_Gear_

 

Tim thanks. I would like some sort of differential lock, preferably something with decent street manners and that won't break the bank. Probably no ox locker or arb or the like. If the traclock is a good piece, I could try and find one of those. I would definitely be seeking help on setting the gears up....way to much for me to take on.

Sorry for not having more info on my Chevy axle....it's at my folks house. I looked at the "applications" list on the jegs site and saw that my year blazer axle was listed so my question was more one of general knowledge. I was just wondering if there was even a small chance they'd be compatible, the front to rear differential swap.

Side note: what would be the approx cost of having a shop set up my axle once I have the parts?

 

The TracLock is not well liked. There are many members of the broken TracLock club here, including yours truly. The spiders and cases are weak, the clutches wear out rater quickly, and they are not very aggressive even when new. The earlier PowerLock is much better. This is a whole oter discussion unto itself. Look at the Randy's site for an idea of what you can buy new.

WAG - maybe $200-$300? Just call a local 4x4 shop and ask. You may be able to find someone that sets up axles on your local 4x4/Jeep forum and save a bit.

 

The series IV differential case with required 30 spline side gears was available only as an option on the 1970-1975 CJ's.
Early GM and IH D44 differentials are interchangable with Jeep D44 diifferentials.

That is a distinct possability depending on the FDR.

Your best street friendly options are one of the lockable differentials or else the Powr Lok limited slip.

Technically speaking you would likely be installing a rear D44 with 4.89 FDR and not 4.88 FDR.
4.89 = 44/9 while 4.88 FDR = 39/8.
Either can be made to work but the D44 with 4.88 uses a 10 spline pinion yoke while the D44 with 4.89 uses a 26 spline pinion yoke.
Best I recall is that Jeep quite using the rear D44 with 4.88 in 1964.
The 4.88 rear D44 was only used on used on many of the PU's. and a few optional SW's
Post 1965 CJ's with D-225 optionally install the slightly superior 4.89 FDR.
Matching Jeep front axles (D25, D27 or D30) all use 4.88 FDR and never use 4.89.

 

Well my plans got shot to crap. The axle was a DJ axle from 71. The owner seemed very knowledgable about it. It had a slight offset, something like 21" one side and 19" on the other. He said it wasn't enough offset to work with my cj. Was he right? Oh well, I guess the hunt goes on.

Interestingly though, he was building a sleeper postal jeep...350, 4 speed, stock steel top, no lift, complete with correct stripes and wheels. That'd be pretty sweet!

 

Yeah, you need the 6"-7" offset, like the axle you have. A centered axle will give your rear driveshaft excessive angle.

FUll-floater is another option, if you want a stronger axle. Use front axle spindles and hubs with custom-made axle shafts. Many have done it.

And you can put locking hubs on your rear axle - handy if you want to flat-tow the Jeep often.

 

Tim I just realized the flat tow option with rear hubs and FF rear while reading a build thread in herms kit. Great idea! Only problem is that most major upgrades cost so dang much! I'll keep my axles as they are for now while I sort out more pertinent issues like a power sag swap and hunting down my death wobble problem.