Tightsteer Problem

http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/tightsteer-problem_topic31407.html

Anybody on this side of the Jeep world want to weigh in on this?

 

I bought one for my 70...it helped some, but not enough.
I'm in the middle of a Saginaw swap.
I did not have problems as described in that other thread.

 

Change it to a Saginaw..............all kidding aside there is only a handful of people that I have seen / known that have the time , patience & ability to meticulously dissect and repair the needs of that old antiquated Ross Steering gear box to the point that it functions properly...........The tightsteer part in my opinion is simply a band-aid for something else that is worn out.

 

Tarry is right.
The tight steer is only an attempt to compenste for a worn spiral cam (worm) and or worn sector shaft tapered pins.

 

My steering is all new. I bought one in an attempt to take out some if not all that was left in the slop of the steering. I'm starting to think it was a waste of money.

I know it's probably been covered here hundreds of times, but can you do a Saginaw setup and keep the original tube/dash mounting of the pre70's with a PTO winch up front?

 

Yes you may want to use a steering column removed from a late 60's or early 70's DJ that originally had Saginaw steering.
One difference will be that the horn wire is external because the Saginaw/DJ column shaft is solid and not hollow like the Ross column shaft.
And Yes...the DJ column also works with the "Sparton" switch.

 

I had the same issue on my V6 equipped CJ5 with the larger Ross box. With the locknut that came on the Tighsteer you could not get it deep enough to maintain pressure on the sector shaft. I was able to find a very thin locknut that got it in close enough to work right. There was very little wear on my box and the tighsteer did take up some the slack in the neutral position. It was not dramatic, but noticeable. Every little bit helps on these things!

 

As Ken mentioned you can swap out that column for one out of a DJ and it will get you where you need to go with the Saginaw...........

But with a little surgery to your old column and inner shaft it still can be reused on a forward mounted Saginaw.
The old shaft inside is an odd size about .900 OD ....so it will have to be turned down to a size that a U-joint can be found to fit..............In this photo of some old parts I used a power take off U-joint with an .875 ID and turned the shaft down to fit. I also cut a Key-way in the shaft to lock it in place. More recently I looked for the more modern smaller sealed Steering U-joints but could never find a 7/8" ID joint. That old shaft is hollow inside so there is always the possibility of welding a spud on the end of the old shaft with the correct OD..............The horn wire in either case needs to now be external so it does not get wrapped up in the joint at the base.........As far as your PTO winch and where you could squeeze the Saginaw box in , that purely depends on your ingenuity!

 

I havnt bought a tight steer but I recently replaced almost all the steering components in my 59 cj5 factory ross setup all except rebuilding the box (yet) and I don't feel that I have that much play in the steering anymore. I now have new kingpin bearings new m38a1 tie rods and tubes installed, new bellcrank bearings after grinding the ridges on my worn ball, then I adjusted the threaded ends in my drag link. (draglink has received no new parts and was only adjusted, adjustment of drag link I believe did most of the fixing on my jeep since its adjustment was way off.) I had to turn the drag link ends like 4 full turns on both sides, so whoever messed with it last time must not have read the instructions for correctly adjusting it

basically I don't think I need the tightsteer because now that factory parts have all been replaced ( except for box and drag link) I think the little play I have left is normal and would likely get better once I do rebuild my ross box.

 

The steering box on my M38A1 is the same unit and I experienced the same problem with a Tightsteer. I sent it back to Walcks.

But my steering is really pretty tight in stock form by replacing any worn parts. I did not have to tear into the steering box itself, but did make adjustments according to the TM. I also agree with Workinprogress that the drag link adjustment is the most often overlooked. I found that even though I adjusted it to specs, it would still need some fine tuning, which I did a couple times. I finally got it in the right spot and the difference was noticeable.

Tough thing about the old Ross system is that it's so complex and antiquated. If you get it right, it's functional and works as designed. But that takes some effort. It's like the Fhead- you can only get so much out of one.

Consider getting the V6 or M38A1 box- they are bolt ups and a much better unit (though of no help if the rest of the system is worn or out of adjustment). I've had both and it's definitely a better steering box.

In defense of the Tightsteer, they don't claim it will compensate for worn parts or misadjustment. The claim is that it compensates for the inherent design flaws of the Ross box. Their argument makes sense to me but I have no personal experience in using one.

 

The Tightsteer worked as designed for me...it reduced play in the steering box. But, my hope was by using that and adjusting everything properly, it would reduce steering effort, which was very high on mine. (I have 31x10.50x15 tires and a powerlock front diff)
Un fortunately, it still steers like a tank, so I'm in the process of a manual Saginaw swap.

 

I would not look for hardly any improvement to reduce steering effort coming from the Manual Saginaw as compared to the old Ross.............A slight reduction in effort on hard surfaces while going straight , yes, but off road or parking hardly a difference!.............Been there done that!

 

Went that route also and would agree that the effort is only slightly less at best. In part, it will depend on what the manual box is from as there are different ratios.

I think the manual box I used had even more feedback than the Ross. Certainly didn't want to get thumbs or fingers inside the spokes when in the rocks.

 

I had a 73 CJ with manual steering and the same size tires...it was a LOT easier to steer than my 70.
I guess if it doesn't meet my expectations, it won't be too hard to go to p.s.

 

Just make sure wherever you mount it fore and aft that you have enough room to later make that change if you decide so.........Power is longer, fatter, and normally has 4 bolts versus 3 on the Manual.

 

gunner, what do you mean by the "M38A1 Box"? I'm not familiar with that term?

Thanks,


ken ('62 A1)

 

M38A1 is the military version of the cj5 it ran the Ross same box as the cj5 with a factory buick 225


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What piffey said. It's a bigger steering box and I recall it having a better ratio. I have had both of the Ross boxes in a few old jeeps and the A1/V6 version is much better. If you have a stock 62 M38A1, then you probably have it in your jeep already.

But when it comes to off road use, power steering is it. I've never had a jeep with PS and the violent twisting of the steering wheel ain't fun. The better Ross box really does help, but even then, it doesn't take long to start thinking of PS. But on the street, where 90% of the driving is done, manual steering is fine and in my mind preferable. Then again, I run tall skinny tires, etc.

 

To look at the two box separately, you wouldn't know the difference. Set a 2A/MB/GPW/3A/3B Ross next to a v6/A1 Ross and the later is bigger. I found out the difference when I bought a new crank; it was too small. The V6 one is an army part #. The true A1 box also has nipple on the bottom where the horn button screws in from the bottom too. Another one of those "black sheep" parts half the vendors know nothing about....except Carl Walck. He's pretty up on all the V6 differences.

It's kind of like the later "jeep" marked gas pedal. A man could make a bunch of money if he could repo that pedal. The way it's build out of rubber, you can't fix it if it's broken. It went on a bunch of other jeep vehicles way into the 70's too. Nos ones pop up on ebay from time to time and they are very fought over