1. Registration trouble? Please use the "Contact Us" link at the bottom right corner of the page and your issue will be resolved.
    Dismiss Notice

Brake booster/MC upgrade

Discussion in 'Intermediate CJ-5/6/7/8' started by IrishCJ6, Jan 22, 2014.

  1. Jan 22, 2014
    IrishCJ6

    IrishCJ6 Member

    Wicklow Ireland
    Joined:
    Dec 6, 2010
    Messages:
    437
    I'm looking into buying a new brake booster/MC setup as I'm not happy with mine (soft pedal and not enough pressure to lock up). Before I get the whole "its just air" or "adjust the pushrod" posts it's not, its been bleed properly and there is no adjustment on the pushrod. The brakes work its just seems like there is insufficient pressure/fluid being applied to achieve a good brake action and has been worsened since I did a rear disc conversion. My Jeep was butchered before I brought it and it does not have the original booster/MC combo instead its been fitted with Mercedes parts (early 300d) and now I'm wanting to get back to a Jeep/American setup THAT WORKS.

    The Jeep is running a SSBC 12" Disc conversion on the front with the GM 1/2 ton calipers, and the Suzuki/Nissan calipers on the rear. Oh and running 33" tyres

    I've been looking at kits shown on eBay but I'm not entirely sure what will work the best with my setup.

    Boosters: 7", 8" or 9"? dual or single diaphragm
    MC: 1" or 1 1/8"?

    My pedals are not the factory CJ ones but the Mercedes ones but it does give me a 4:1 ratio pedal thus I believe I don't require the adaptor? The pedals locate in the same fashion and have very similar pushrod connections points.

    As I'm in Ireland and will be purchasing this online, I need to know what I'm buying is going to work (tried and tested) so if anyone has a similar setup that works could you please let me know what I need.
     
  2. Feb 6, 2014
    IrishCJ6

    IrishCJ6 Member

    Wicklow Ireland
    Joined:
    Dec 6, 2010
    Messages:
    437
    Update to this, with the help of a chap on "Pirate" I have now completed a booster/MC upgrade using WJ Jeep factory hardware. It has worked a treat and I've now gone from having terrible brakes to fantastic ones without breaking the bank. For anyone wanting to know more please PM me and I'll let you know the in's and out's.
     
  3. Feb 11, 2014
    DREDnot

    DREDnot Not new to JEEPS

    AZ
    Joined:
    Feb 7, 2010
    Messages:
    646
    Good deal! You had me totally confused with all that retrofit stuff.
     
  4. Feb 17, 2014
    firegod33

    firegod33 Member

    Grand Junction, CO
    Joined:
    Jul 7, 2003
    Messages:
    154
    By all means, do a write up of the install here with pics. There are many (myself included) who would like to know the details.
     
  5. Feb 17, 2014
    Warkmeister

    Warkmeister Member

    Fresno, CA
    Joined:
    Jan 13, 2014
    Messages:
    63
    Yes please! Post pics and write up! What year wj?
     
  6. Feb 17, 2014
    IrishCJ6

    IrishCJ6 Member

    Wicklow Ireland
    Joined:
    Dec 6, 2010
    Messages:
    437
    Ok, so here goes.

    First my setup:

    Front - GM/Jeep 1/2 ton Calipers (2.9" piston) and 12" rotors
    Rear - Suzuki/Nissan Maxima combo (1.34" piston/11.5" rotor)

    So the parts required from the WJ were:

    Brake booster
    Master cylinder
    First section of pipe - from MC to Prop valve or ABS
    Proportioning valve (WJ/ZJ) or adjustable
    Brake pipe and unions

    First off I compared the pedal ratio between my current setup and that used in the WJ, I had been given the WJ pedal on the off chance I needed it. The WJ ratio is 3.8:1. I then checked mine and found I was running 4.5:1 (Merc pedal box). I then calculated what it required to achieve the WJ ratio. I had to lower the pushrod attachment point by 1/2". I also had to offset the pushrod by 1/4" to allow connection to the side of the pedal.

    There is no reason why the same principle couldn't be used for a factory Jeep CJ/other pedal. It may just mean raising or lowering the booster assembly.

    I then compared the bolt pattern of the two boosters (the WJ was larger). I made a quick template that utilised the existing bolt pattern and then the new bolt pattern taking into account the lowering and offset required. I then offered this up to the Jeep and redrilled the corresponding holes.

    Once the booster was bolted in place I found that the pushrod on the WJ booster was 5/8" shorter than my current setup but that wasn't an issue as it made it easier to connect to the back of the pedal. I found that a shouldered 1/2" course thread bolt fitted snuggly in the WJ booster pushrod hole. Simply drilling out a corresponding nut (1/2") and welding to the back of the pedal sufficed with the correct pushrod length. A simple fibre washer either side of the pushrod and then the bolt placed through made a very usable connection to the pedal.

    Next was mounting the MC (simple), I opted to use an adjustable proportioning valve as I already had one but a WJ/ZJ factory one is fine also (so I'm told). I quickly made up a bracket utilising the MC bolt holes and mounted the prop valve to this.

    Next off was a simple case of making the pipes and connecting them to the existing system. I had to alter my front line by adding in a tee as the previous MC had provision for both LHS/RHS at the MC. The WJ MC uses metric threaded unions (M12x1.0 and M10x1.0). Make sure you get the M12 union with the MC as it's a Jeep/Chrysler only part.

    After that is a simple connect up. I made one simple mistake by getting the front/rear lines the wrong way round on the MC (was mislead by the chap on Pirate "by mistake") which lead to a stiff pedal and not enough force to stop the Jeep. The smaller M10 union (closest to the booster) is the front connection, the M12 union (closest to the radiator) is the rear connection. The rear line on mine goes from the MC through the adj prop valve and to the rear lines. The front goes from the MC to the tee and is split to the 2 front brakes.

    A quick bleed and run found that I needed full pressure to the back anyway so you may be able to eliminate the prop valve if you have the same setup as me.

    Below are some photos during the build, the last photo shows the incorrect line positioning but I haven't taken one of the corrected version yet, but it will give you an idea on how it goes together.

    WJ booster in place

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Pedal connection

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Prop valve

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    And the final mock up (remember the front/rear lines are the wrong way round)

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Read more: http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f2/brake-booster-mc-upgrade-21186/#ixzz2tcG02e6c
     
  7. Feb 17, 2014
    uncamonkey

    uncamonkey Member

    Greeley CO
    Joined:
    Jun 2, 2009
    Messages:
    2,104
    The pictures sort of confused me at first, then I remembered where you are.
     
New Posts