Building my 66 CJ6 to look capable of things it will never do

Thanks for the info. I think Ill go with the Rotella. Had good luck with it in my diesels.

 

I've had bad luck with Rotella. Both vehicles I had it in managed to burn a fair amount of it off. Diesel and gas motors, both are under 100k miles.I use other brands of oil now and have't had any oil consumption issues yet.

 

A little work to show and a couple of questions...





This is with the new "reclocked" oil pump housing installed. Takes a metric filter now...



Here's a question...does this throwout bearing look like it is correct in the fork? I suspected the fork should go in the groove, but this fork has some spring steel fingers on the back of it, and this is how it wants to set...





Last question. Can I replace this yoke with the one off of the rear of my Dana 18? Wasn't sure if the Dana 18 and 20 had the same output spline dimensions or not...





I hope to slip the engine and tranny together for a test fit, and then spin up oil pressure on the engine and begin putting it all back in the jeep over the weekend. My "new" used rocker assy showed up this morning, so we have all the pieces to make it work now. It should go well til I get to the crossmember, which I am reasonable sure will have to be heavily modified or a new on fabbed up. I'm also looking into twin sticking the Dana 20. Anyone using the cable type shifters?

 

I've heard the cable shifters work nice but can be a pain to route the cables. JB Fabrication makes some very nice twin stick conversions but I bet you could build them yourself also. http://jb-custom-fabrication.myshopify.com/collections/jeep-stainless-steel-twin-stick-shifters

 

Made a lot of progress over the weekend. My rocker assy showed up from one of the members on here Friday-Thank You! Also got my new oil pump housing. We were able to get it put together, test fit the tranny and engine to each other, spin up 40 psi of oil pressure with the plugs out, and then we got it set back in the jeep. Waiting on a couple of minor details to put the transmission and transfer case assy in.

 

More pics

 

I wanted to say thank you and Happy Holidays to all of you. Several of the members on here have guided me, some have sold me hard to find items, and some have bought parts which helped me finance this project. Thanks! Novak has also been excellent to work with and reasonable on cost. It appears this will all come together soon, and it has been a year since I started on it-although we did take a break and just drive it for a little while this summer.

 

Got the transmission and transfer case installed today. Is it normal for the t-18 to sit closer to the drivers frame rail? I haven't measured yet, but I think the engine and tranny may be setting at an angle. Everything is back in original frame mounts but I did install new motor mounts and they had different part numbers. They "looked" the same.... any chance that's where its at?
Probably my luck... wrong sides... if anyone has run into this please let me know.

 

A couple of pics of the T-18 sitting in the jeep. Still working on the crossmember and checking out why the tranny is not centered in the frame rails....

 

Re: Distributor install

Uh - be sure the 0* mark is at the SAME POINT on the 215 cover as on the 225. I know they are different between the 225 and 231 covers.


I saw the previous post and it has me concerned. I went to fire up my engine today and the timing seems to be off. Not sure its 180 out though. Ran out of time and battery was weak so its charging til tomorrow. If my new cover from rockauto with the separate timing indicator that had to be installed (not cast in) is for a 231 then how far off am I?
Is no 1 wire supposed to be at about 5 o'clock?. I'll put a light on it tomorrow. We had fuel and a hit or two but no start. Oil pressure is good though!​

 

And another question. Should I be able to move the clutch arm by hand? I cant. I pulled pretty dang hard on it and can't release the clutch. That little hydraulic cylinder must have some butt to it!

 

18* it is! Moved my initial distributor stab to 18* instead of 0* on the new bolt on rockauto indicator and new cover and she fired right up. Moved it to an estimated 5* advanced from there and hooked up the vacuum advance. Increased idle to 1500 or so rpms and let it run for half an hour. Sounds good! No leaks, no bad sounds, just the smell of burning off some of that new paint. Tomorrow night it gets a new oil filter and can of STP. 12 psi at idle, 60 cold, 40 at 1000 rpms. I think it will be ok. Have to retune the carb I'm sure. Thank you for the guidance! I'd have never found that 18* had it not been for this site!

 

Got the Novak hydraulic clutch mount and cylinder bolted on this evening. Had to remove just a tad of material where it interfered with a rib on the bellhousing just north of the lower bolt. She's setting nice and flat now. The way I see it I have 2 things left before I go for a ride. Shorten and reinstall the rear driveshaft (already installed the new 1310 series u-joint yoke on the rear of the Dana 20) and get the wrangler pedal assembly installed with the Novak clutch master cylinder and hose to the clutch cylinder. I'm close.

Got my electric fan thermal switch from jegs today as well. Looks like it will go in the intake just left of the upper radiator inlet where there is a plug now- kind of a flat face facing the radiator. Sound right?

 

I was unable to move my clutch fork by hand, when I did mine, many moons ago. I installed a hydraulic clutch set up and intermediate pedals and my pedal is still very stiff. I thought this was due to having used a HD clutch. Tarry99 noticed, in some of pictures, that my pedal geometry is off and the push rod from the pedal to the master cylinder is slightly angled. So, just a word of warning here: take your time and make sure everything is lined up as it should be. Tarry knows what's up with this stuff and when I redo mine, he will be my go to guy, I hope. From the looks of it, I will have to move my wiring harness, where it comes through the firewall, and my clutch master cylinder, to correct my problem. Basically have to redesign and rebuild that part of the firewall.

 

Got a lot done over the long weekend. She's running, driving, and doing everything right!

I installed the Wrangler brake pedal for my clutch pedal. I had the whole swinging assembly out of the Wrangler, but when taken apart, the brake side was more compact and had more mounting holes, so I used it for the clutch. Also installed the master cylinder from Novak. Everything went smooth with this.







Then we installed the slave cylinder-probably posted that previously.



Everything I bought from Novak worked as advertised!



I was pleased that the T-18 shifter ended up in the exact same place as the T-86 shifter had been. No sheet metal work!









Then we installed the dual stick shifters-also from Novak







Got to shorten this shaft 2-1/2" and install it next

 

Just thought I'd mention that I had to heat and bend the wrangler arm a little to make the angle right, and then I cut the original pad off and welded the CJ-6 pad back on so it matches the other one I had done that way as well.

Had to heat and bend the shifter a little as well to make room for me.

 

:tea: Looking like some serious progress!!!

 

Great work. Looks nice and clean. Could you post a few shots of your transmission crossmember? I have a few thoughts for mine but, always interested in seeing others ideas.

 

I'll get you a couple of pics in the next couple of days. 8* here this morning. I let the fire go out in the shop when I saw the weather for this week, as I'm far enough along to take a break from it and just sit in the house by the fire in the evenings.

I used a piece of 3" tubing on each side between the frame and crossmember to space down my stock crossmember. 2" would have been adequate had it not been for the "stock" 79 Cherokee rear transmission mount my local flaps sold me. It was a little too wide to set flat on the adapter between the tranny and transfer, so I used 2 half inch nuts for spacers there. Then, in the course of leveling up the carb bowl, I used about another 1/2" of spacers between the mount and the crossmember, thus the extra inch I wasted. 2 benefits though: My mount is solid to the adapter and sitting flat, and with the spacers under the mount I gained a little clearance between the Dana 20 and the crossmember. I haven't fabbed the torque arm yet-and I'm looking at just a piece of angle iron and some shackle bushings to make that work.