dana 30 swap question.

Yes I put all new tierods.
oh that tierod is specific to dana 27, I didn't even bother the people at flaps.... I went to kaiserwilly, its made by crown.

http://www.kaiserwillys.com/product...g-tie-rods-steering-knuckle-parts-accessories

Question 1: I am not sure I don't see an issue, the valve should just keep a little pressure on the caliper. The only way I Think you would have a problem is if there was air caught up by the valve.

Question 2: I think question three might answer this

Question 3: so If you accidentally left that 10 pound pressure valve in the master cylinder with disk, well they will probably act funny. Disk brakes needs two pound residual pressure valve. Drum needs 10 pounds of pressure. I think a few members here even ran disk without a residual pressure valve. I do think a 10 pound valve on the disk might cause some trouble though.

 

A 10 lb. valve with disc brakes can hold the brakes applied, all the time. Add the heat generated by the brakes being applied all the time and the fluid can heat up and apply the brakes even harder.


Sent from my iPhone

 

so i guess i should take the front brake like (actually in the rear of mc) and see if that valve is in there. what does it look like? will i know just by looking in the port?

 

so then all i need is that one tie rod right for the 27 and the rest from a '78 then right? i think they are the same for the most part

 

I used two dana 27 tie rods I am not sure if its the same size and length as the Dana 30 or if they will even thread in. You checked it to see if it was long enough right?

Ideally the best way would be getting a longer drag link tube then run the normal tie rods, instead of running the odd ball tie rod, and normal one with the slightly shorter tube.

78 for the rest because you got those outer knuckles. I imagine the 74 is the same parts though, its the same width.



if you do a search for the valve in the master cylinder it should come up. I recall seeing a picture and it kinda looked like a pen spring I haven't taken on of those apart yet though.

 

ordered the tie rod from kaiser willys. also a couple other things from them as well. that one tie rod is the only odd ball. the rest are the same as 72-and up. this weekend i will take the line off the mc and look if the valve is still in there. to remove that valve you just screw in a screw and pull it out right?

 

i have everything hooked up so i can at least drive it in the yard and steer. even though it's all used (and i mean used) parts it all works. there is still enough threaded into each end to make me feel better.

 

ok everyone, so this is what i am seeing. i put in a '74 dana 30 axle with '78 knuckles out disc brakes. i also installed some con-ferr skid plates on the front axle. installed new tie bar with tie rod ends for a '78 and new drag link with tie rod ends. i kept the front shocks in the original location and this is where i am running into a problem. when the wheel it turned all the way to the driver side the tie bar hits the drivers side shock but it does not hit the wheel lock on either side. i'm running the ross set-up until i get all the parts for power steering conversion. has anybody else encountered this? it seems like the ross steering is my limiting factor for being able to turn from full lock to lock along with hitting only the drivers side shock at full left turn.

 

Can you flip the shocks? With the shocks in front of the axle, I have to run mine with the rod side down to prevent the tie rod from hitting. You may also need to adjust the stops and live with a turning radius that is a little larger.

 

just might have to do that joe. i do wonder if that will affect the operation of the shocks though and if i should do the same with the rear shocks?

 

The intermediate factory CJ-5s with the D-30's moved the front shocks back behind the front axle.........that's why the D-30 spring plates had the shock spud in the rear.....and some also had spuds in the front but that was for a sway bar.......The shock does not know where it's mounted , just keep the same angle and it will be fine........the rears are OK no change needed. That intermediate replacement OEM shock mount can be purchased almost anywhere and welded on.

 

what i did was weld on a bolt that was the same size as the old one after i cut the head off on the front side of the skid plate. what i was referring to was the shock being installed upside down as far as operation.

 

As far as flipping the shock most people don't have issues and can be done, please note that some shock companies claim one of the shock styles shouldn't be flipped because it cannot work as effective in that orientation. Something about the valving and or type of gas they use.

I will edit my post when I figure out what style if shock has this issue.